Blue Sketch Roses Dress

New finished dress! I'm so happy to finally showcase this sateen from my spring collection. This is the Sketch Rose in blue, a 100% cotton sateen, available at Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores.

This is one of the dresses my mom helped me cut out a few months ago, and I finally got around to sewing it up. I used patterns from my latest book, Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book. The bodice is the Basic Jewel Neck Bodice (with a small shoulder modification that I'll show below), paired with the three-quarter circle skirt.

 

I'm surprisingly crazy about this dress, given how simple it is. I want to make it in lots more colors and prints!

I've been trying to up my accessories game, and I paired it with big hoop earrings, white mules, and this amazingly cute belt I found for a steal on Amazon of all places. (Though I like the dress both with and without the belt.)

As you can see on the mannequin, the shoulders have a slight racer back look to them. They're cut inward for a narrower shoulder.

Here's a little tutorial on how to make this pattern change.

I did this by making marks at 1-3/4" in from the shoulder (where the sleeve would connect), and then 5/8" under the armhole.

Then I connected those marks with a curved ruler.

Cut away the excess.

Repeat on the back!

I finished the armholes and neck hole with an all-in-one facing.

You can either adjust the included facing pieces or make entirely new ones to follow the new armholes.

I also like to take off a scant 1/8" around the neckline and armholes, which helps the facing roll inside the garment better. See the new orange lines around the neck and armholes in the photo below!

Trace that section off (between the orange lines) and those are your new facing pieces.

Let me know if you have any questions about that pattern adjustment!

I always get asked about my foundation garments, so I took I few pictures this time! (Don't worry, nothing too racy). I wore my favorite longline bra, but it needed a little tweak in the back to accomodate the cut-away shoulders. These adjustable straps are perfect for this purpose.

The longline bra requires high waisted panties for a smooth line, and then a crinoline (this one is by Hell Bunny) gives the skirt lots of fluff. 

I don't always go full '50s in the foundation garment department, but it definitely looks good for pictures and it's nice to have the option.

The skirt has a three-step narrow hem (instructions in the book)!

And a back lapped zipper. I didn't even think about pattern matching, though I really should have. Luckily there are no egregiously badly placed flowers!

 I love this dress so much, I'm going to cut it out in another fabric this weekend!

Tutorial: Using Pom Pom Trim in a Seam

When you imagine pom pom trim, you probably think of the big dangly kind that you might see on curtains. But pom pom trim comes in several sizes, from mini to jumbo! And there's a particular kind, often labeled as "petite" that is ideal for garment sewing projects because you can insert it right into a seam. This method is very similar to using piping, where the trim gets sandwiched between two seam layers. It can go into collars, cuffs, shirt front openings, necklines, and anywhere you have two layers of fabric stitched together in a seam (usually one layer is the garment outer, and the other layer is a facing, which means that one may be interfaced).

Shopping note: I've purchased most of my petite pom pom trim from this online shop, and have been very happy with them. I've also found it on Etsy, so look around!

Like piping, this kind of insertion works visually to emphasize seamlines. It can also add a splash of a contrasting color. And pom pom trim has a certain whimsy to it that makes any garment fun!

Here is what petite pom pom trim looks like before you sew it:

Much like piping, the pom pom trim has a "flange" or "lip" that allows you to sew it easily to a seam allowance. I would avoid the mini or baby pom pom trim that doesn't have this lip, because it's much harder to sew on the edge. Here's an example:

Here is the method I use to insert the trim into a seam. First, on one of the pieces, stitch a line of staystitching right along the seamline. So, if your seam allowance is 5/8", this line of stitching will be exactly at 5/8" from the edge of the fabric.

Next, use this line of stitching to help you place your pom pom trim. The little balls of the trim should go just to the garment side of the staystitching. Using a zipper foot, baste the pom pom trim in place. It doesn't matter where you stitch, right in the center of the "flange" is fine. I place the pom pom trim as I'm stitching (rather than pinning first), because it's easy to see underneath the trim to the staystitching.

Now, grab the other layer of your garment and place the two layers right side together, as you normally would to sew.

With your zipper foot still on, and stitching with the staystitching on top, place another line of stitching right on top of the staystitching. (See? The stay stitching works as a guide both for placing the trim and for making sure your stitching is accurate in this step!)

Trim and grade the seam allowances. Understitch the seam allowances to the facing using the zipper foot, if necessary/desired.

Press the layers so the wrong sides are together. Your little pom poms are just peeking out of the seam!

That's all there is too it. Just be careful: using pom pom trim is totally addictive!

Making a Quilted Skirt, Part 2

First, some vital information: Here's part 1 of this tutorial! And here are pictures of the finished skirt.

Okay, at this point in the process you have the front skirt, with quilted lines going on the bias in one direction. I marked your original line with blue painters tape, and used a quilting guide on a walking foot to keep the rest of the lines even.

Now we need to do the criss-crossing lines. They should start at the same point in the opposite corner of the skirt, and be perfectly perpendicular to your first set of lines. You can check this with a clear ruler.

Use the blue tape to stitch your first line, and then your quilting foot guide to make the rest of the lines. You'll have a nice and neat grid.

Now to quilt the back pieces. Use the same method of marking the first lines with blue tape. Start the tape in the upper corners like you did with the skirt front, and have the lines go at a 45 degree angle. Make sure that they will meet at the same point in the center back, in a V shape.

Quilt the two back pieces in both directions. Now all three pieces are quilted!

Now it's time to sew the side seams. Place the back pieces right sides together with the front piece. Match the quilting lines as best you can by using a pin as a guide. Poke the pin through the fabric, and then adjust the two layers of fabric until the pin is going through the two lines of stitching that you are matching up.

Next, sew the center back seam, but only up to the point where the zipper will be inserted.

Press all seam allowances open.

I chose Hong Kong seams for my skirt, and used the contrast quilting fabric. Finish all seams, including the back zipper opening.

Insert a zipper at center back. I used my favorite method, the lapped zipper.

Next, I cut the waistband, leaving seam allowances and 1" for an underlap. The waistband is 1.5" wide when finished.

I used a nonwoven medium weight interfacing on my waistband. To give a slightly different look, I used 1/4" channel stitching on the waistband. This provides both stability and visual interest.

I sewed on the waistband, leaving the 1" underlap at the right back. The waistband closes with a hook and eye.

I turned up a narrow hem, and finished the raw edge. Hem lace is perfect for this purpose.

I finished the hem with a slip stitch, stitching the lace to the inside of the skirt.

And that's it! You have a cozy, perfectly '50s-style quilted skirt!