B6453 Sew Along: Supplies and Prep

Okay, let's get this party started! I'm happy to report that the Facebook group for the Sew Along is almost up to 900 members. Please join here if you'd like. It's a great place to post photos, get advice, and generally cheer each other on.

In this post, I'll be talking about supplies you need and then answering some frequently asked questions about things like pre-washing, sizing, and making a muslin.

What supplies do I need? 

• The pattern for Butterick 6453
• Fabric in the amount listed on the back of the envelope and on the yardage tab on the pattern page. 
• Interfacing. Lightweight woven and tricot are my two favorite interfacings for garments. I avoid non-woven interfacing since it gives your gament a stiff, papery feel that I dislike.
• A 14" regular (not invisible) zipper. I use lapped zippers almost all the time for an authentic vintage look.
• A pair of 3/8" rings and sliders. Dritz sells them in sets with three colors, and you can find these at stores like Jo-Ann. I also love the metal rings and sliders that Tailor Made sells. 

What are the best fabrics to use? 

I love this dress in cottons like sateen, lawn, and poplin. Border prints could be used for either view, but are especially great on the full skirt version. I've also made it very successfully in rayon challis, which gives a much slinkier, softer look. Some silks and wools could work, but I would avoid anything too thick, as the straps would get too bulky, as would the skirt gathers on View A. 

I'm using one of my new sateens in a cute floral print, now arriving in Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores. 

Should I pre-wash my fabric? 

Cottons are easy to pre-wash, so yes if that's what you're using! I'm using one of my Gertie cotton sateens, and I like how they soften with machine washing and drying. My usual rule of thumb is to pre-wash if I intend to machine wash the garment after sewing. If I plan to dry clean or hand wash in cold water, it's not as important.

What size should I make? 

The biggest piece of advice I can give you here is to go by the finished pattern measurements which are printed on the tissue paper. These include the pattern ease, and are bigger than the body measurements on the size chart (fold on the flap of the pattern envelope). Butterick tends to add more ease than expected, so please check those pattern tissue sheets for the finished measurements! You will probably make a size smaller than you expect to from the size chart. 

What's the deal with all the ease? 

This is a tricky topic to discuss, but the ease conforms to Butterick's standards. However, in the photo on the envelope, the garment has much less ease. I fit this garment on myself with 0"-.5" of ease in the bust and waist, while Butterick gives the pattern 2.5" of ease. This means that if you want the garment to fit as it does on the envelope and in my pictures (with a tight vintage fit), you will probably need to go down 1-2 sizes from what the size chart says.

Size chart is on the envelope flap

Finished garment measurements can be found on the pattern tissue

What if my fabric is a little sheer? Can I line it? 

The border print sample you see on the envelope was a little sheer in the bodice so I underlined it! I used white cotton batiste and cut out it in the bodice pieces only. Then I basted the batiste to the sateen using a 1/2" seam allowance. The pieces are treated as one after basting. I finished the dress with a facing in the usual manner. Here's a photo of the inside of the dress.

You can definitely line your dress (though I won't be covering instructions for that). You can consult references like my book Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book for information on how to line a dress.

Should I make a muslin? 

I almost always make a bodice muslin, and now would be a good time to do that. Just use the main bodice pieces (not the facings) and sew them together along the princess and side seams. Stay stitch in a darker thread color along the neckline and waistline seamlines so you can get a good sense of where the neckline and waistline fall on your body. You can use ribbon or twill tape as a temporary strap for fitting. Pin up the back and check your fit. (Tip: you can also insert a dress length zipper into a bodice muslin for ease of fitting. The zipper will hang down to your hips, extending past the bodice muslin, which will help you get it on without help pinning.)

If you're concerned that you'll need an FBA (full bust adjustment), I'll have info on that next week. The Facebook group is a great place to post muslin pictures and ask for fitting advice. I love how everyone is supporting and helping each other in the group!

That's all I have for today; please let me know (or post in the FB group) if there are any other questions you have. 

The Seventies, Fifties Style!

Or is the Fifties, Seventies style? Hmm. Anyhoo, isn't this 1974 Simplicity pattern interesting? It has elements of decades prior--the sweetheart neckline, the full skirt. But just look how the models are rocking it with the platform shoes! Love the hairstyles, too.

Now, here's my version:



I made this up in a green and white polka dot poplin from Gorgeous Fabrics. I didn't change a thing about the pattern, and the fit worked out great! If I make it again, I'll probably add a little more ease to the waistline. One too many cupcakes and things could get a little dicey there. It could also stand to be taken in at the side seams of the bust.

One experimental thing I did was to cut up a store-bought bra (it's one I don't wear very much) and sew it into the bodice. I tacked it on at the neckline facing, and stitched it on in the ditch of the side seams. I left the back of the bra intact so that I could hook it after I put the dress on (like how you hook a waist stay). I have to say, it's awesome. It's a nice way to get shape or support if you're in a pinch or can't find the right sew-in bra cups. I was going to show you a picture of the inside, but then I realized I'm too shy to show my unmentionables on the interwebs.

I wore this out to dinner when my sweetheart and I had our wedding anniversary a few weeks ago (five years!). The lovely waitress effusively complimented the dress, and it was all I could do to not blurt out, "I MADE IT!" I just gave a very restrained "thank you" with a smile.

How do all you other seamstresses handle compliments on your handmade clothing? Do you suppress the urge to tell the world that you created it? Or am I the only weirdo who does this?

Je T'aime, Colette Patterns!

Colette Patterns is a new line of sewing patterns from Sarai Mitnick of Portland, Oregon. When I first saw them, I knew it was love. More Anthropologie than Ann Taylor, these patterns are gorgeous, vintage-inspired, and best of all, come in the most adorable and amazing little stitched booklets with watercolor illustrations!


The first season has five patterns (four dresses and a skirt), and I immediately snapped up three of them. I made the Parfait dress in a pink seersucker check from B&J, and I have to say I'm over the moon about the pattern. The drafting is great, the instructions are awesome, and the aesthetic is so beautiful. Look at the little gathered patch pockets! Also, a view of the back (you can also catch a glimpse of kitty in the lower left hand corner).

The only change I made to the pattern was to cut the pockets and midriff pieces on the bias to add a little visual interest.

If you're interested in trying Colette patterns (and you should!), one thing to note is about the sizing. I cut an 8 in the bodice, and transitioned down to a 10 in the skirt. The sizes are closer to ready-to-wear than traditional sewing patterns, and they're made for the very hour-glass shaped. Sarai says she drafts bodices for a C cup, and makes sure they can fit a D as well. I am neither of those (understatement of the year alert), and as a result the fit is a bit off in the bust.

I just learned how to do an sba (small bust adjustment) from Fit For Real People and I am SO psyched to try it out on this pattern. It's like magic! Next up is the Macaron dress, and then I think I'll redo the Parfait in this lovely washed silk I have--it's the color of pistachio ice cream. Yum!