The Rachel Outfit

This outfit is named after my dear sewing student, Rachel. You know how teachers are always saying that their students inspire them? It's so true!

The skirt is a pattern she and I developed together.

Rachel couldn't find a pencil skirt pattern that fit her the way she liked, so I draped one right on her body. From there, we've been exploring patternmaking for lots of different skirt styles, and we've recently been on a pleat mission. Rachel brought in this picture of Katie Holmes in a Caroline Herrara skirt, and wanted to copy it (jewels and all).

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It's an unusual design: there are two inverted box pleats on either side, which are flanked by two knife pleats pressed inward. All the pleats end at different lengths, giving a staggered effect. Rachel and I made the pattern, and then she brought in the muslin to fit. I was captivated by it! I tried it on, and a few fit tweaks later, I was copying my student's pattern (with her enthusiastic permission, of course). Ours ended up a bit more flared at the bottom than the inspiration, which I loved.

I made the skirt up in a thick stretch sateen in a pretty sapphire color. The whole thing is lined in mint Bemberg lining, with a little lace for effect.

I finished the waist with polka dot petersham ribbon (I have a video class on this technique if you're interested).

Readers, I'm curious how you would have sewn this lining. I used the same pattern as for the skirt, but just folded the pleats at the top rather than stitching them, to give wearing ease in the lining.

The shirt is also Rachel-inspired. She noted one day how she rarely sees me in separates, just dresses. My problem with separates, readers, is that's at least twice the outfit to decide on! And I'm not a morning person. Rachel's advice was this: figure out a "uniform" for yourself, and then just grab one of each uniform piece in the morning. She favors tailored button-down blouses, so I thought I would make one to match my skirt, in her honor.

This is Burda 2561, and I'm mostly happy with it. It has a nice easy fit that can be tucked in with a skirt or tied sassily in front with jeans. The armhole is pretty low, however, so I plan to remedy that when I make it again. The fabric is a lightweight cotton/silk blend from TrueMart Fabrics near FIT.

And here's the woman herself, trying on a jacket we were working on together earlier this year! Isn't she fabulous?

Student Spotlight: Jacob

Isn't this Warhol-esque portrait of moi wonderful? It was a birthday gift from my sewing student, Jacob. He nailed the lipstick color and even accentuated my beauty mark! I love it so much; I have to find a place of honor for it in our new house.

Jacob is 14 and a budding fashion designer, photographer, and all-around creative type. We've been working together for almost a year, and he's very inspiring, to say the least.

Here's one of his first projects, a Charlie tote bag.

He later moved on to skirts. (He makes clothes for his mom!)

He's now graduated to a cocktail dress that he draped himself. I couldn't be a prouder teacher!

Jacob is also a budding blogger, authoring The Fashion Procedure. I notice he hasn't written in a while, perhaps some new followers will motivate him! Hint hint.)

Student Spotlight: Debi and Oona

Since I'm teaching so much these days, I thought it would be fun to write about my students and what they're making. And damn, I have some talented, interesting students. Let's start with two ladies you've probably seen around the blogosphere. Oona and Debi came in to take a private lesson with me last week.

Readers, I  can't believe I get paid for this. Hang out with two amazing, funny, charming, sewing enthusiasts for two hours? Yep, I'll take that job! These gals wanted to learn bound buttonholes and a bit about draping. We started with an hour on buttonholes and they picked it up super quickly. I'm a recent convert to the patch method (more on that later) so that's the technique I taught them.

On to hour two. Oona was curious to learn more about draping--which, mind you, I've never actually taught. But I won't let a silly detail like that stop me! I was lucky enough to score a vintage half-size dress form last week (from Sew Fast Sew Easy, which is sadly closing up shop). It's a Wolf, and I've named her Tiny. She's the perfect size for demonstrating and experimenting upon. Oona skipped the basics and made some crazy pleated-shoulder design. It was awesome.

After our lesson, we went out for a lovely Italian dinner. The whole night was just so much fun--exactly what I needed. My cheek muscles got a workout since I pretty much laughed the entire time. Thanks, Oona and Debi!

More to come on my other students and what they're making . . .