A Mod Shift?

Do you ever surprise yourself by buying a pattern that's out of your usual comfort zone? On a trip to Joann's yesterday, I completely gravitated toward Simplicity 1609, a reissue of a 60s shift dress. It was a "Jiffy" pattern, one of their quick and easy designs. I don't usually go for 6os Mod, or even shift dresses. But this one has some really promising design features.

First: darts! I really can't wear a shift dress that doesn't have any sort of shaping (unless it's a nightgown). This design has both bust darts and French darts for shaping, giving waist emphasis. Secondly, they give you two neckline variations: a bow and a scalloped Peter Pan collar. Adorable.

I plan to make up the bow version in this black and white plaid. Very Peggy Olsen, don't you think?

I'm going to eliminate the center front seam and cut it on the fold, so I don't have to worry about matching the plaid there.

If you're usually a 40s or 50s girl, the shift (ha!) to mod style can be perplexing. But no reason not to try it, right? If it works out, it could be the perfect "throw on" summer dress!

P.S. The 10% sale in my fabric shop ends at the end of the day today. Enter code ROSESGALORE to get your discount!

On Redingotes

V8875

Have you seen the new Vintage Vogues? I'm super excited about 8875, seen above. It's a sheath dress topped with a redingote (with a cool double collar, the second of which is removable and can be made in fabric to match the dress). 

Here's the original pattern; isn't it beautiful?

(The blogger who sent the pattern to Vogue is doing a giveaway, BTW!)

A redingote, for those not aware, is a sort of frock coat which closes only at the front, usually creating an opening in the front of the skirt. The name comes from the English phrase "riding coat", which was borrowed by the French and pronounced like "redingote." In a strange turn of events, the English came to pronounce the word as the French do. (According to wikipedia, this pehnomenon is called "reborrowing," defined as "the process where a word travels from one language to another and then back to the originating language in a different form or with a different meaning." Interesting!)

I would love to do the Vogue version, perhaps in a blue color scheme and with some horsehair braid to give the hem of the redingote more flare, as in the original pattern. 

And, just for fun, a few more vintage redingtoe patterns!

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 P.S. Vogues are currently $3.99!

Happy New Vintage Vogue Day!

I mean, it's practically a holiday in the sewing world. New Vintage Vogue patterns, readers! I'm just popping in quickly because this is a matter of utmost importance, since the $3.99 Vogue pattern sale ends at midnight tonight.

Here's 8812, one of my favorite Vintage Vogues in recent memory:

Nice photography, too. Are those Remix Shoes I spy?

The line drawing reveals the pretty bust shirring and the easy, breezy shape of the skirt.

Then there's 8811, which is simplicity defined.

At first, it didn't do a whole lot for me. (But the shoes? YES PLEASE.)

A look at the line drawing revealed what a useful dress this could be--the vintage-loving gal's version of a t-shirt dress, if you will.

Okay, ladies. Five and a half hours of the sale left to place your orders!

An Upgrade on the Walkaway Dress?

Hey, have you all seen the new Vintage Vogues? 8788 is adorable, and it has a remarkably similar construction to the famed Walkaway dress (blogged, with ambivalence, here).

See how it has two panels that wrap around each other?

It ties in a cute bow in the back.

Here's the Walkaway reissue, for comparison's sake:

I think what I really like about the new Vintage Vogue is that it seems less boxy in the bodice. Also, the elegant jewel neckline and the flattering princess seams. (Related: I need the purse in this illustration.)

What do you think? Is this a better version of the Walkaway dress? I suppose only time will tell! Who's going to make it first and report back please?

P.S. I also love 8789, which is made up in a floral stripe. I think Vogue outdid themselves with the styling for the photography on these new releases.

Isn't it very Horrockses? One of my favorites from the V&A, for a little eye candy:

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Crinoline Tutorial in Vogue Patterns Magazine

I still haven't taken the plunge and subscribed to Vogue Patterns magazine, but I do check it out on the newsstand every month. I had to buy the June/July issue because of one of the free projects: instructions to make your own crinoline to complete your Vintage Vogue ensemble.

One of the things that's always bothered me about the Vintage Vogues is that they don't modernize the length. That in itself is fine, but if you're wearing 50s tea-length, you definitely need some structure under your dress, whether from a big fluffy crinoline or a more subtle shaping with horsehair braid. Is there anything sadder than seeing someone who's taken the time to beautifully construct a vintage dress pattern in classic tea-length and their skirt is all limp? (Okay, I guess there are sadder things, but I'm being dramatic for the sake of the post.)

And finally Vintage Vogue acknowledges this! Their petticoat article shows a reissued 50s pattern, with and without a crinoline. And then they give you clear, step-by-step instructions for making your own. Love it!

I did think it was funny that the crinoline they make is a mere 21" inches long, when most Vintage Vogues end at a very dramatic tea-length, I would guess around 29-30". But it's progress. Next, I'd like an article on fitting the bodices of reissues to get a more 50s look. Right?

Also worth noting: if you don't have time to make a petticoat, these are supposed to be the best and they're very reasonably priced. Happy twirling!

The Joan Holloway Dress: Take Two

Sometimes after I finish I project, I can't stop thinking about how to improve it. Especially the fit. I usually continue to obsess about it until the only option is to immediately make the project again. It's very exhausting to be me sometimes. (It also requires a lot of fabric.)


As I wrote about earlier, my first stab at Simplicity 3673, a reissued vintage pattern, involved a lot of fitting around the waist and bottom hem. As I wore the dress (twice in two days!), I found I was also unhappy with the bodice fit. It kept gaping around the front and back neckline, the armholes, and a deep wrinkle formed around the bust. Here's how I altered the pattern. While wearing the dress, I pinned out the extra fabric. Here's a couple views of the tucks I took out:

Then I measured the depth of the tucks and transferred them to the pattern. You have to slash and overlap the amount of the tucks, like I did in this sba tutorial.

So I made this again with my altered pattern, in a nice red double knit from Gorgeous Fabrics (it's on sale now!). The alterations on the bodice made the neckline a little higher, but I think it's a nice alternative to the original look. It's possible I got a little overzealous with tucking out fabric, because now the under-bust seam keeps riding up. See, this is why I should really always make a muslin after major alterations to a pattern. Live and learn, right?

I'd never worked with double knit before, and I liked it, but I think the wool crepe is a better choice for this dress.

I've been getting really into Ambiance Bemberg lining (I buy mine at B&J in the Garment District, but you can buy it online here), and I used a coral color to line just the bodice in this version. I like how it creates a rich monochromatic color scheme.

Whew. I think I can lay this pattern to rest now. On to the next VoNBSS project!

Channeling Joan Holloway

I am a huge Mad Men fan. When I first saw this emerald green wool crepe at Paron Fabrics, I thought "Joan would look fantastic in that color!" Alas, Joan is a fictional character, so I had to buy it for myself instead. I think she'd approve though.

I made this little sheath dress from a vintage reissue pattern from Simplicity.

This was my first time using a reissued vintage pattern, and I have to say it was a little disappointing. I made my usual size (14), and when I put it on, it looked like a sack. Perhaps I should have gone down a size, but then the fit probably would have been off in the hips. I really had to do a lot of finessing to get the hourglass look of the original pattern illustration. I took it in about three inches at the waist, and reduced the hem circumference by four inches (to get that nipped in look at the knee).

It seems like one of the major things pattern companies do to modernize a vintage pattern is to give it much more ease for a "contemporary" look. This seems kind of counterproductive to me. If I wanted a contemporary fit, I'd just buy a contemporary pattern design. The envelope photographs probably should have clued me in. Look how baggy the gray version is in the skirt!

But anyway, once I got the fit I wanted, I was pretty happy with this pattern. I especially like how the bodice is lined to the edges rather than using facings. I like the full-skirted view as well, so I might give that a go at some point.

What have your experiences been with reissued patterns? I'd love to hear about them in the comments!