Vintage Casual '40s Blouse in Pink Floral Challis (with Pom Pom Trim!)

I'm back home from Vienna and Munich and have a ton to write about now! But first I wanted to show off this finished project because I'm so happy with it. This is the "'40s Style Blouse" from my book Gertie Sews Vintage Casual. This project was shown in plaid cotton shirting in the book, and this rayon challis gives it a competely different feel.

Ah, the old pink hair! I do miss it sometimes.

This fabric is from my new fall line, so of course I was super excited to sew with it. I love rayon challis for its softness and beautiful drape.

The blouse has a breast pocket and sleeve cuffs. I highlighted the design details with little pom pom trim all around! I'm going to do a separate post on how to work with this type of trim, because there's so much to say. The great thing is that it can be inserted into a seam, just like you do with piping.

I could seriously use this trim on almost every project I make.

I made the pattern in a size 8, and I like how it has a looseness to it. It drapes nicely when tucked in, thanks to the dart tucks at the waist.

I found some cute little pink and clear plastic buttons at Joann.

I paired the blouse with a basic black skirt from Modcloth.

Every time I wear this skirt, I get questions about it. So here goes, in advance: it's two circle skirts (one a few inches longer than the other) sewn together at the wide waistband. It's black cotton, no lining. It would be very easy to reproduce, in fact I've been planning on making my own version for some time.

Here you can see the grand backdrop of a building in Vienna. Oh how I love that city!

I'm so pleased with this project as an addition to my wardrobe. Look for a pom pom trim post soon!

Finished Quilted Skirt

It's finally finished! I wrote "Making a Quilted Skirt, Part One" earlier this year and then life and book writing took over. I finally finished the skirt last week, so here I am modeling it. Part two of the tutorial is coming up!

The skirt is made from the rose print sateen from my spring 2015 fabric line. (This color is sold out online, but it's available in yellow and coral on poplin here.) It's sandwiched with red Kona cotton and cotton batting. The quilting gives it incredible shape and body--no petticoat needed!

The pattern I used the the Flared Skirt from my book Gertie Sews Vintage Casual. It's a half circle, though it looks much fuller with the quilting.

There's a high waistband and a back lapped zipper. The waistband is interfaced with non-woven sew-in interfacing and then has rows of channel stitching rather than quilting. I'll be writing more about this.

The quilting adds such a fun texture and overall shape. 

I wore the skirt out fabric shopping in the city yesterday and got so many compliments. Seriously, I felt like a celebrity. (I found some great fabrics for my dirndl, readers! More to come.)

Look out for part two of the tutorial next week!

Making a Quilted Skirt, Part 1

I absolutely love the look of a quilted skirt! Using machine quilting on full skirts was very popular in the '50s. The best thing is that the quilting adds lots of body, for a very full look.

Did you know the skirt on the cover of my book Gertie Sews Vintage Casual is quilted?

For that skirt, I used a layer of cotton and a layer of flannel and then outsourced the quilting to my mom. Here's a view of the inside.

See how well the skirt is supported by the quilting? It's like magic!

I recently got a yen to make another quilted skirt in spring-like fabrics. I'm using the rose print sateen from my new fabric line. (It seems to be sold out online, but it's definitely available in Joann stores. The print also comes in yellow on poplin. In other fabric news, it looks like the border print is back!)

I decided to try a more traditional quilting configuration, using batting between two layers of fabric. So the first thing I did was gather my supplies:

• About 3 yards each of the sateen and a backing fabric. I'm using Kona Cotton in Red for my backing. 
• Cotton batting. I chose a twin size package, and will have plenty leftover. 
• A skirt pattern. I'm using my flared skirt pattern from Gertie Sews Vintage Casual. (See the section on the quilted skirt for more specifics on how to use the pattern and draft a waistband.) 
• A 9" regular zipper. 
• Spray fabric adhesive, to hold the layers together. 
• Painters tape (or masking tape), to mark quilting lines. 
• Lightweight fusible interfacing for the waistband (not pictured).
• Also handy: a walking foot for your machine (this keeps the layers smooth while quilting). Having a foot with a "bar guide" is especially handy for this. 
  

Start by washing and drying your two fabrics to pre-shrink. Then iron and starch, if desired. (Starching helps put some body back into the fabric after pre-washing. I learned this on quilting message boards! You can even make your own starch, which I totally did. Just mix a tablespoon of corn starch and a pint of water in a sauce pan. Heat, mixing well, until boiling. Leave to cool. Add two drops of essential oils, like lavender (optional). Pour into a spray bottle using a funnel.)

Cut your skirt front and backs out in both fabrics and in the batting. 

Lay out the layers one at a time and spray with the adhesive. Roll up the next layer, and set it down, unrolling it so that the edges match and they stick together from the adhesive. 

Once you have your "skirt sandwiches," mark your first quilting line with the painters tape. Find the exact center front of the skirt (you can fold it in half and mark with pins) and then find the 45 degree angle to this. I like to use a 2x18" ruler, and align a 2" square with the center front line, as in the illustration below: 

By Sun Young Park, from Gertie Sews Vintage Casual

Place your tape along the 45 degree angle, starting at one upper corner of the skirt. 

Before stitching along your taped line, make a quilting sample! Use a small swatch of all three layers together. Make sure you're happy with your chosen thread color and the width of your stitching lines. 

Once you're happy with everything, start stitching along the tape. Remove the tape and stitch parallel lines, using either the guide on your walking foot or more rows of tape. 

Hey, the quilting guide even works well when you put the bar in upside down! (Whoops.)

Keep on making those parallel quilting lines. I hope you have a good podcast to listen to. (OMG, have you heard Serial? I binged on all 12 episodes last week.)

Next time, on Serial: how to make the crisscrossing lines, matching the quilting lines on the skirt backs, seam finishes, and skirt construction!

Comfiest Ever Pencil Skirt

I keep meaning to write about this skirt because I'm so darn proud of it! I made many prototypes trying to get to a casual wear version of a retro pencil skirt for my new book, Gertie Sews Vintage Casual. I knew I wanted it to be made out of a knit fabric with an elastic waist, but still have the structured look of a classic pencil skirt with a high waist and a tapered silhouette. Many test versions later, I came upon this: the Easy Knit Pencil Skirt.

For me, the real triumph is the hidden elastic waistband. It's smooth and lays completely flat so you don't get that sweatpant look around the middle. It looks cool on the inside, too. At first glance, it looks like a facing.

But flip it up and you'll see the secret!

One of the reasons the skirt is so easy is that it just has one pattern piece: the skirt front/back. It has a cut-on facing. You serge or zigzag the elastic to the facing and then flip it in.

I've made several more of this skirt for myself, including this floral version.

(Excuse me, I was having a bad face day.)

P.S. The book also has a '60s inspired mini skirt version and a '40s gored, flared version!

Sheep & Wool Festival This Weekend!

I'm signing books at the Sheep & Wool Festival in Rhinebeck this weekend! Though they might as well call it the Angora Bunny Festival, because I lose interest in all other things when I see one. It will be a miracle if I don't go home with one sooner or later.

I'll be in the author signing area from 12:00 to 2:00 on Saturday signing copies of Gertie Sews Vintage Casual. Hope to see you there!

The Wrap Dress from Gertie Sews Vintage Casual

My new book has been out for a couple weeks now and I've been wanting to show you some of the designs! Here I am wearing the Wrap Dress, a simple short-sleeve dress with a narrow shawl collar, gathers on the shoulders, and a gathered skirt. 

In the book, the design is modeled by my friend Allyson and she looks adorable in a plaid seersucker version. 

Of course, I wanted to make the dress for myself too! I chose a floral quilting fabric by Amy Butler. I love the big blue roses. 

Here you can get a better view of the shoulder gathers and the collar. 

The skirt has side gathers in the front, and is gathered all the way across the back. It has a slight fullness, but not a huge amount. In keeping with the casual theme of the book, I wanted something that felt very wearable on a daily basis.

This is one of 10 included paper patterns in the book. (Bonus: I also show you how to adapt the Wrap Dress bodice into a Rosie the Riveter style jumpsuit and a one-shoulder romper.) In case you're wondering, the sizes go from 2-16, and they're pretty equivalent to ready-to-wear sizing.

I have more designs to show you, so stay tuned!

Book Giveaway! Gertie Sews Vintage Casual!

My new book is out! Gertie Sews Vintage Casual: A Modern Guide to Sportswear Styles of the 1940s and 1950s just released this week. It's a collection of techniques and patterns to create a vintage-inspired wardrobe for your everyday life. To celebrate, I'm hosting a giveaway right here.

To enter, all you need to do is leave a comment on this post by the end of the day on Monday, September 22nd. In your comment, make sure that I have a way to get in touch with you (i.e., make sure your username links to a profile with contact info, or just leave your email address in the comment if you like). The giveaway is open to all countries.

I'll announce a winner on Tuesday.

Good luck, readers! Thank you for all your support on this new endeavor. I hope you love the book. Look out for some upcoming posts on the designs from the book too!