Fashion History Time!

che·mise \shə-ˈmēz, sometimes -ˈmēs\ n 1 : a woman's one-piece undergarment 2 : a loose straight-hanging dress

Etymology:
Middle English, shirt, from Anglo-French, from Late Latin camisia
Date:
13th century

Now that I've finished the chemise dress from Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing, I've found myself curious about the history of the chemise dress in general. (Yeah, it probably would have made more sense to be curious about this before I made the dress, but my mind doesn't always work that way.)

Since I've been in possession of VoNBBS, I've pretty much thought of the chemise dress featured as "that dress I don't like." As I made the dress, I gained a new appreciation for it, and also some bemusement. Like I said yesterday, this shape strikes me as so contemporary, and not at all the silhouette I associate with the 50's.

But obviously, the chemise shape is not a modern one. It seems to actually be one of the oldest forms of clothing, which continues to reincarnate itself. It was worn as a unisex tunic in the middle ages, as the scandalous chemise a la Reine popularized by Marie Antoinette, and under ladies' corsets in the 19th century. I've found several self-identified chemise dress patterns from the early 50's, so perhaps it was a shape that experienced another resurgence then. Google the word "chemise" today, and the results are a bit R-rated.

In any case, the 50's patterns seem to have these things in common: no waistline seam and no waistline shaping. In most cases, a belt was worn to cinch it in. But still, the shift silhouette is such a divergence from the wasp waist look of the late 40's and early 50's, and I find that fascinating. Perhaps it was an early 50's idea of comfort wear, instead of leggings or whatever it is that people wear for comfort now.

Anyway, fun stuff. The gathered skirt from VoNBBS is really a dirndl, so perhaps I'll make that my next research project!

P.S. If you want some really interesting insights into the chemise, you must check out this article from MUM, the Museum of Menstruation and Women's Health. Yes, that exists. Apparently.

An "Easy-to-Make" Chemise Dress

Well, it's done. The very first project in Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing. There were some tough times, but I persevered. I also discovered that there's a very good reason that "easy-to-make" is in quotation marks.

"The chemise dress is a wonderful starting point for your sewing career. There is no waistline seam . . . you just cinch it in with a belt."--VoNBBS

Ha! I just can't get over the fact that the editors of VoNBBS considered this a project for an absolute beginner. Sure, there's no waistline seam, but there's also a mandarin collar, a faced slit opening in the front, a thread chain button loop at the neckline, and bias-cut cuffs. I mean, really. If this was the first dress I ever tried to make, I think it would have ended up being my last.

In any modern sewing book, I think we all know what the first project for a beginner will be: a wrap skirt. It's just inevitable. I can't recall the last time I've seen anyone wearing a wrap skirt, but sewing books seem to think they're an integral part of any wardrobe.

But I digress. This post is supposed to be about the making of the chemise dress. I was apprehensive about this project, to say the least. Sure, it looks great on the model with the 22" waist, but what other woman really wants all that extra fabric bunched up around her waist? No, thank you.

I realized that fabric choice would be even more crucial than usual with this project. I wanted something that would drape, rather than bunch up, around the waist. But it needed to have enough body to make the tailored cuff and collar. You might be able to guess where I went: the 4 ply silk.

I did stray from the original dress pattern and book instructions quite often (guess I was feeling rebellious). I shortened the pattern by 4 inches. I made use of some of my modern luxuries, like serging rather than hand-overcasting the raw edges. I also added interfacing to the collar, neckline facing, and cuffs. Other projects in VoNBBS (the tailored ones, like the suit and coat) make use of sew-in interfacing, but the dresses and skirts do not, oddly enough. I used a purchased belt from Anthropologie.

The most interesting thing about this dress is that, to me, it looks almost contemporary. This shape certainly isn't what we associate with the early 50's, anyway.

I'm just happy to be moving on from this project. Hemming it really got me down, as you might have heard. I think this was partially because the hemline looks different depending on whether you're wearing a belt or not. VoNBBS instructed to wear a belt while marking the hem placement, but in retrospect, I think it would have made more sense not to wear a belt, and made sure the hem was straight as it hung down naturally. It still looks rumply to me from all the fussing, but ah well. But no sense dwelling on that now.

Next up from VoNBBS is the full, gathered skirt in gingham. But I'm going to take a little break for other projects, I think. I don't want to risk VoNBBS fatigue!

Searching for Vintage Patterns: a VoNBBS Update

I have made so much progress locating the patterns from Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing this past week!

I found the full skirt, the bolero, the sheath dress, the raglan sleeve coat, and the evening gown (see the fab illustration above). Can you believe it?! That leaves only five left to find.

The full skirt, bolero, and sheath dress patterns were all from one eBay seller. She also has the portrait neckline blouse and the chemise dress! (Click here and here if you're interested in either of those patterns; they're both a size 36" bust.) Tamara, the seller, said that all the patterns came from one estate sale. I figure the lady of the house must have also owned VoNBBS, right? When I asked Tamara if she could give us any more info, here's what she said:

I bought these a few years ago; they either came from a house in Hinsdale, Illinois, or Brookfield, Illinois. Both houses were big sewing people. I love clothing from this time frame and is why I bought them and also because they were larger sizes. One was a designer and I have some of her art work that she drew of the clothing and sample material. She was a buyer for a store as well.

Interesting look into the life of a VoNBBS devotee, isn't it?

My next project from the book is the chemise dress. I'm a little worried about the shape of it for my figure--it's really just a simple shift meant to be belted at the waist. No darts, nothing. I just hope the gathering doesn't add too much bulk. I figure I can always add dart tucks or elastic shirring at the waist if it's too shapeless, don't you think? I found a beautiful polka dot silk for it, but it was too expensive for a dress I wasn't sure I would like anyway. So I compromised with a fun polka dot cotton.

I'm excited about this one since it's the first project in the book. Back to basics!