The Collected Coat Vlogs

Thank you all so much for your lovely compliments on my coat! I loved reading each and every one of your comments. Since I know a lot of you are interested in sewing your own coats in the future, I thought I'd collect the links to my coat vlogs in one easy-to-find place. Here goes!

1. Shaping the Undercollar
2. Shaping the Coat Front
3. Shaping the Back and Shoulder
4. Tailoring the Collar
5. Setting in the Sleeves
6. Hemming
7. Interlining for Warmth
8. Hemming the Lining
9. Inserting the Lining/Understitching the Facing
10. Finishing Touches

Whew! There they are, all in one handy bundle. I hope you find these useful!

Also, if I may, I'd like to extend a special thanks to Jeff for his generous filming, lovely photography, and unwavering coat-making support. And another thanks to Pip and Henry for all their help along the way. I couldn't have done it without you jerks!

The Finished Coat!

It's done! The much labored-over coat.

I find there's really not a whole lot to say. After all, I said A LOT during the process - ten videos worth!

I love the coat. I really do. I'm so proud of my construction on this project. I do still wonder if I got the fit exactly right. And in retrospect, I really should have converted the one-piece sleeve to a two-piece tailored sleeve to avoid the bagginess I've got going on.

But you know what? I'm not going to nitpick. It's a beautiful coat, it's warm, and I made it all my own little self. Now please allow me to indulge in way too many photos.









Hooray for me! And hooray for you - for all your tips and encouragement along the way. I've had a handful of you write to me and say you've been inspired to start your own coat. And that makes me very, very happy.

Coat Vlog #10: Finishing Touches!

Believe it or not, the coat is finished! I'm going to give it a final press today and then Jeff and I are going to do a little photo shoot on our roof. I'll post pictures on Monday! Here's my final vlog on coat-making, where I show you a couple of the finishing touches: sewing on the buttons, how I hemmed the sleeves, and tacking the lining to the coat.

Here's the thread chain tutorial I mentioned. Let me know if you have any questions!

Coat Vlog #9: Inserting the Lining/Understitching the Facing

We're nearing the end, readers! In this vlog, I attach the lining to the coat, and then understitch the facing. You'll have to excuse my casual appearance in this video. It was a torn jeans and old sweater kind of day!

Let me know if you have any questions!

Coat Vlog #8: Hemming the Lining

As requested, here's my method for hemming the lining on my coat. Do let me know if you have any questions!

P.S. My idea that I would get the buttonholes done today was pure fantasy . . . I'm shooting for Monday instead!

Coat Countdown

Readers, it's freezing outside. A warm coat interlined with lambswool would really hit the spot right now. Alas, I'm still constructing the lining/interlining on my lovely red coat, and I feel like I've been on this step for ages now. But I know I'm in the homestretch. Hallelujah!

The goal is to get the lining attached by Thursday. Why Thursday? Well, I'm going to have the buttonholes done professionally at Jonathon Embroidery in the Garment District, and they're only open weekdays. And Friday is a holiday. So that leaves tomorrow night to get that lining in there. I'm feeling optimistic, obviously. (I also want to do at least one more vlog for you, showing how the lining goes in.)

So . . . we'll see. But I thought I'd give you this little sneak peek in the meantime!

Coat Vlog #7: Interlining for Warmth

Interlining is a subject that caused me a lot of distress when I was first approaching this business of sewing a tailored coat. But it all boils down to just two major things you need to figure out: 1) what kind of interlining to use and 2) how to attach it.

To figure out which type of interlining to use, I took a swatch to the store with me and tried layering it with a couple different options. I opted for lambswool, which is very warm and will keep me from freezing as I walk back and forth to the subway each day. Next, I decided to attach my lambswool interlining to my lining pieces and then sew them all together as one, which is the method my tailoring book recommended and it made the most sense to me. Watch as I demonstrate each step in this video!

I purchased my lambswool at Greenberg & Hammer here in New York. You can order from them by mail, if you're interested.

Coat Vlog #6: Hemming!

Welcome back to the coat vlog series! In this episode, see how I tested hemming methods and then watch as I demonstrate pressing up the hem and easing out the fullness of the flared skirt.

Also, just to be clear on the method I'm using, it's a three inch bias strip of fusible weft interfacing. I cut it with pinking shears (this eliminates any ridges forming on the right side of the fabric), and fused it so that the bottom of the interfacing lies half an inch below the fold of the hem. And then the hem gets stitched to the interfacing. Make sense?

Also, I refer to a "herringbone stitch" a couple times, which I believe is more commonly called a catch stitch. See Kenneth King's two versions here. Here's a picture of the one I'm using, courtesy of Threads magazine.

This stitch is for sewing the hem in place (to the bias strip of weft interfacing) permanently.

Let me know if you have questions!

Coat Vlog #5: Setting in the Sleeves

Guess what? I learned a super cool method for setting in a sleeve with a strip of bias-cut hair canvas! Check it out on this video.

The coat is totally looking like a coat now! The next step is to sew in the shoulder pads and hem the sleeves. And then it's on to the interlining and lining. Woo hoo!

Coat Vlog #4: Tailoring the Collar

Here I am, once again documenting my coat-making experience! Today, watch the drama unfold (not really) as I grade and notch the collar seam allowances. Also, want to meet my adorable cat Henry? There's another video below!

How's that for a cute kitteh?

P.S. If you're looking for the applique/duckbill scissors that I mention in the non-cat video, click here. I don't know how I lived without these things! Buy yourself a pair; you won't regret it.

Also, here's a link to diagonal basting instructions. Diagonal basting is really just a large pad stitch.

Coat Vlog #3: Shaping the Back and Shoulder

I'm back with another video installment on my coat-making progress! In this edition, I show you my muslin back stay and demonstrate easing in the back shoulder seam and stabilizing it with twill tape.

Erica B. is damn good at tailoring, and I kept referring back to this post she did on shaping a jacket back. Look at one of these fab pictures she took of her process!


I was so worried about making a back stay until I saw this picture. So thank you, Erica!

Coat Vlog #2: Shaping the Front

Welcome back to my series of coat vlogs! Watch as I take the second step of a tailored jacket or coat: shaping the front piece. Here I get all Martha Stewart and demonstrate how I shrink and apply weft interfacing to my entire front pattern piece.

Here's the tailoring book I refer to. And here's an online source for weft interfacing. Let me know if you have any questions!

Coat Vlog #1: Shaping the Undercollar

Hello, all! This is the first of a series in which I'll update you on my coat progress as I go along. This whole business of tailoring is completely new to me, so I thought it would be cool to document each step as I learn. See the full post below for a corresponding resource guide!

Resources:

• The book I refer to is Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket from Creative Publishing International. I just noticed that it's currently 55% off on Amazon!
• The pattern I'm using is Vogue 8346.
• If you have trouble locating tailoring supplies such as hair canvas, I suggest contacting Greenberg & Hammer here in New York. They currently have a mail order catalog for download on their website, and have an online shopping feature in the works.
• I'm including a scan of the pad stitching instruction page from my tailoring book below. (Click the image to see it full-size.) The material isn't mine to reprint, but I thought it might help for you to see one page if you're considering purchasing this text. I hope the copyright police don't arrest me! I highly recommend this book, and it's a steal for $8.57 on Amazon right now.
  

Coat Muslin: Opinions, Please!

So, I know these aren't the best pictures in the world. (And yes, I also know that I have a Cabbage Patch Kid by my head, a paper mache egret to my left side, and a cat to my right side. That's just how I roll.) But, in any case, behold my coat muslin!

To refresh your memories, this is Vogue 8346, view D. The only weird thing about it is that I can't seem to find anything wrong with it. I made a straight size 14, no alterations or anything. And I'm completely happy with the fit. Am I missing something?

I'm wearing a dress and a cardigan underneath, which is what I wear on a typical winter day. It fits very comfortably, with a few inches of ease.

I love the shape of it! It hits me mid-calf, which at first I thought was too long. But the length quickly grew on me. I think it's going to feel like a big cozy blanket.
Anyway, I could really use your opinions here. Do you think the fit looks good?

The fabric is currently at the drycleaners being steam pressed, and I've been avidly studying my tailoring book. I'm actually starting to feel confident about the whole thing! Even if I don't end up making any changes in the muslin stage, making it really helped me get my bearings. Now I'm just excited to make the real thing!

Armed and Ready (for Coat-Making!)

So, I confessed to you last week that I was intimidated by how complicated coat-making seems. In fact, I was ready to wimp out and take all the shortcuts I could. But then one of you lovely commenters brought me to my senses.

Here's what kbenco wrote:

I'm sorry to disagree with the "just go for it" vibe here, but I think your Modern Vogue pattern is deceiving you. IMO the instructions should start with "Consult a good tailoring reference". If you make a coat without fiddly interfacing and lining etc etc, you will be able to wear it, but will you be happy with it? I threw out my first real jacket, made from the instructions in the Vogue pattern envelope, after I had made one from the same pattern, using tailoring references, which I liked about a thousand times better. A nicely made coat would be worth all the work.

First of all, I adore her sassy attitude! I love a broad with strong opinions. Her thoughts definitely touched a nerve, and I've committed to doing this thing the right way.

The first thing I did was write to the lovely Nancy K, who lives in my region and participated in the Great Coat Sew-Along (with fantastic results!). Nancy was very generous with advice for me, especially concerning what kind of interlining is good for our part of the country.


So, armed with Nancy's guidance and a reference book I picked up at the FIT bookstore, I headed to the Garment District and shopped til I dropped. Seriously, my bags got so heavy I almost tipped down the subway stairs. Let me tell you, it got expensive fast. In fact, I spent about the same in supplies for this coat as I did for the last coat that I bought at Macy's. Granted, that coat is a worthless piece of crap. I have to keep reminding myself that this coat is going to be much better and warmer and more fabulous than anything I could buy ready-to-wear. (Right?)

My shopping spoils included:

1. 5-1/4 yards red wool/cashmere flannel from Paron's
   
2. 2-1/2 yards polka dot silk charmeuse for the lining from A.K. Fabrics
3. Heavy tailor's muslin for testing the pattern
4. Black lambswool for interlining (it's so soft and fluffy!)
   
5. Sew-in hair canvas for the undercollar and hem
6. Weft interfacing for the front facing

And believe it or not, there are more supplies to be bought. I managed to forget thread and shoulder pads. And there might be shoulder head whatsits and pressing thingamabobs needed (I'll have to consult my reference book for the exact terminology here.) And I'm also going to have covered buttons custom made. (Squee!)

So, here I go. Wish me luck! I'm going to get the muslin sewn up this week. I'll definitely be looking to you sassy, opinionated broads for feedback on the fit.

P.S. Just to note: I took the above photo in artificial light and couldn't get across the fabulous lipstick-red color of the wool, sadly. But trust me: it is a fab, true red hue. Not orange-y at all. Coordinates perfectly with MAC Russian Red lipstick!