Threads Special Designer Issue

Have you ladies and gent(s) seen this issue? I know many of you have, since you're the ones who recommended it to me. Damn, this thing is good. It's worth it for the price alone for the article "Memories of a Parisian Seamstress: Tales and techniques from the workrooms of couturier Jacques Fath." The funny thing is, I actually have this article on my Threads DVD that I got for Christmas a few years ago, but somehow never came across it. It outlines, step by step, the process that Fath used for draping an evening gown foundation with cotton tulle. (As you might recall, I wrote about this technique a few weeks ago).

I can't recommend the article highly enough. It's given me a ton of ideas for how I might utilize this technique on my own. Plus, it gives a bunch of awesome insights into being a seamstress for Fath in the late 40s. It's pretty amazing being able to read a first-hand account of that era.

There are also articles on Chanel, Norman Norell, and Yves St. Laurent, among others. Even if you have these on disc, it's pretty cool being able to read them all together, on the subway, for instance.

Anyone else obsessing over this issue?

Building a Sewing Library

I've always been a book person. I grew up in a town where the library was a converted one-room schoolhouse and I remember clearly the tiny children's nook on the second floor. I love to browse book shops and libraries, and I've worked in more of them than I can count at this point. It wasn't much of a surprise that my chosen career ended up being in book publishing. I mention books often on this blog, and I've recently gotten some requests for a post dedicated to my favorite sewing books. You demand, I supply!

I enjoy reading about sewing almost as much as I enjoy actually sewing. Is there anything better than curling up in bed with the new issue of Threads or a lovely vintage sewing book? As you can imagine, I have quite a collection of sewing books. But out of all of them, there are a few gems that I come back to again and again.

But before I begin, a couple tips for building your library:

• Buy used. This cuts down on cost, and you can find out-of-print books pretty easily as well. My favorite site is Alibris.com.
• Look for older editions. The book nerd in me loves having the first edition of sewing books. Plus, if you're sewing vintage, these older books correspond well to vintage pattern instructions.
  
• Focus more on technique-based books rather than project-based books. It can be hard to resist fancy new books filled with tons of trendy patterns, but I find that these are the books I use the least. You'll get more bang for your buck if you focus on skill-building books.
  

Now, on to the list!

1. SEW: Sew Everything Workshop by Diana Rupp. This is my absolute favorite beginner's book. Even if you've never sewn a stitch in your life, this guide will make you comfortable with the basics of sewing. And lots of cute projects as a bonus.
   


2. The Reader's Digest Guide to Sewing. This is the classic guide that tons of sewists use and it's a fantastic supplement to your pattern instructions. Drafted your own Peter Pan collar but don't know how to sew it properly? Want to use a lapped zipper rather than a centered one? Make a simple waistband for a skirt without a pattern? This is your book!



3. The Sewing Book by Alison Smith. This is a DK guide, which are known for their clear pictures on glossy pages. This is an all-in-one reference like the Reader's Digest Guide but with photos rather than illustrations. I use this as a second reference, after my RD guide.
   


4. Design Your Own Dress Patterns by Adele P. Margolis. I'm obsessed with this book, as you've probably noticed. I have a 70s edition of this book, but it's available currently as Make Your Own Dress Patterns. If you're interested in making design changes to your patterns or drafting your own elements like collars, yokes, and waistbands, this is a fabulously accessible book that you must own.
   


5. The Complete Book of Sewing by Constance Talbot. Published in 1943, this is the oldest sewing book I own. I love it for the illustrations as much as the time-tested techniques.
   


6. Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto. This is the fitting book I recommend to anyone who asks. It teaches you tissue fitting and how to address every fit issue you can think of. This covers dresses, blouses, and skirts.



7. Clare Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide. Whenever I'm sewing an unfamiliar fabric, I look it up in this book. It gives all the info you could need from recommended needle size, care guidelines, best finishing techniques, and more.
   


8. Easy Guide to Sewing Linings by Connie Long. The bad news first: this book is out of print, hard to find, and quite pricey. But I got my used copy for around $30, which is an excellent price. I have to say, it is so worth it. Lining always brings up a lot of questions, and this book answers them all. I love her method of quick lining. (See the technique here on the Threads website.) Update! This book is available as a pdf download here for only $13.99. Thanks to the commenter who pointed this out!



9. Threads back issues. Okay, this isn't a book, but I've learned SO much from perusing my back issues of Threads magazine. You can order back issues directly on the Taunton site (watch out for their 50% off sales), but I bought most of mine on the cheap on eBay.



10. Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Shaeffer. The classic text on couture sewing at home.



11. Tailoring: the Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket. All the tailoring I did on my red coat, I learned from this book. It is fantastic. Trust me.



12. Pattern Drafting for Fashion Designers by Helen Joseph-Armstrong. If you want to get deeper into drafting patterns, this is an excellent resource. It's geared toward fashion students (and it comes with a textbook price), but still accessible to the home sewer, I think.

Did I skip any of your favorites? Do share!

Threads Magazine: Yea or Nay?

I've made my love of Threads Magazine well known around these parts. I've learned many advanced techniques from their crystal clear instructions: bound buttonholes, boning a bustier, fitting secrets. But I have to confess, the first time I picked up an issue, I was immediately turned off. I think the first thing I saw was a technique to applique and embroider t-shirts. (Eeek.) I wanted something that spoke more to my fashion sensibility. But then a dressmaking teacher showed me some of the excellent articles in his favorite back issues, and I became a true fan. Once I learned to look past the styling, I discovered a treasure trove of information.

I amassed a decent collection of back issues from eBay, and have read through them more times than I can count. I certainly don't look at Threads for style inspiration, and I skip over articles on things like machine embroidery and quilting. I have to remind myself to ignore the styling of an article, and to focus on the techniques and how I can adapt them to my own taste.

I'm now a subscriber, and even though there are some articles I skip, I still love it. This month's issue is a pretty clear representation. There's stuff that's definitely not for me, like this:

But then so much that is. An article on the restoration of a couture vintage dress at Madame Paulette's, the "World's Leading Custom Couture Cleaner."

A profile of various trims and how to care for them.
And then an article on different tailoring methods, just in time for my coat project!

I figure it's a lot like the challenge that the pattern companies currently face. They have to keep a wide variety of sewists happy, so every article isn't going to be to my taste. No big deal, I'll just skip to the articles that are.

How about you: are you a Threads reader? Or do you have other sewing magazines to recommend?

Gertie's Gift Guide!

Can you believe the holidays are almost upon us? As I've been gearing up for the season, I thought it would be fun to put together a little gift guide for all those seamstress-y people in your life. (Sweetie, are you reading this?)

1. My first pick is the Threads Magazine DVD-ROM archive. I am a huge fan of Threads, but I've always hated having to dig through all my back issues to find the article I'm looking for. This new searchable archive has all 146 issues on it!


2. I know for a fact that the new line of Colette Patterns will be available for pre-order in the next month. I also know for a fact that I want them ALL.


3. Every sewist loves to add to his or her stash. A Mood gift card will earn you big points! They can be used online or in the NYC or LA stores.

4. Books! Why not give the vintage fashion lover in your life some literary eye candy? Some top-notch picks are The Golden Age of Couture and Forties Fashion: from Siren Suits to the New Look. Also, since she needs a killer 'do to go with her killer style: Vintage Hairstyling: Retro Styles with Step-by-Step Techniques.


5. I've long wanted a rotary cutter and mat. Just think how easy bias strips would be to cut!


6. Wild Ginger Pattern Master Boutique is a simple-to-use software that allows you to make your own custom patterns. I think it would be perfect for copying vintage designs - in your size!

Okay, your turn! What are you longing for this holiday season?

Bound Buttonholes (Ack.)

So, I have a confession: I've never made a bound buttonhole. And the bow-tied blouse (which I cut out last night! In the baby blue wool jersey) has five of 'em. Right smack down the middle of the back. I'm scared, people. I've been doing research on various methods, and here's what I've come up with.

Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing boasts about their method: "Speaking of buttonholes, we show you how to make Vogue's streamlined one-piece fabric buttonhole. We love it. It's quick and easy." It's funny that VoNBBS acts like they invented this method, because as far as I can tell, it's the standard "patch" method.

Now, I am not impressed with this method. I first attempted it while making my taffeta skirt, and the results were so sad that I ended up just making the buttonhole by machine. But not this time! I'm determined to make some pretty bound buttonholes if it's the last thing I do, damn it.

So I turned to Issue 140 of Threads Magazine, which has an article on bound buttonholes that promises "professional results with industry techniques." I admit I have a soft spot for this article because the author, Barbara Frangione, opens the piece with a charming story. Here's a little excerpt:

Once upon a time (actually, it was during the winter of 1949), I took a draping class in New York City. I rode Long Island Railroad to get to class, and I usually sat next to a fellow student whose father owned a clothing factory.

One night, I wore my new wool coat - a Vogue pattern with every plaid meticulously matched and not a thread out of place. The bound buttonholes were made the way the pattern instructions had always directed. Needless to say, I was more than pleased with my work.

I said to my fellow passenger, "I made this coat."

"I know you did," he said.

When I asked how he knew, he replied, "By the buttonholes. They're just not right."

Can you believe he said that, readers? What a cad! I don't like this young fellow one bit. But the story has a happy ending, in which Barbara learns an industry technique for making bound buttonholes. It involves using strips rather than patches, a technique that looks a little something like this:


You then turn the strips to the inside and secure them in place. So that's what I will be testing out tonight (on some scrap fabric first, of course). Wish me luck!

And please, anyone have any great tips on bound buttonholes? I need all the help I can get!

Here Comes the Bride . . . in Velvet-Flocked Tulle!

Hurrah! I'm finally realizing my dream to use some of the amazing tulle flocked with velvet polka dots that B&J sells. (You might remember it in electric blue from this post.) And the reason is a very happy one. My dear friend Kristin asked me to make her a party dress for her wedding reception. What an honor! The wedding is in two weeks, so I need to get sewing.

Kristin wanted a short, strapless party dress that was 50's inspired and said "kicky and flirty." It also has to go with hot pink satin flats. What could be more fun? The pattern we decided on is Simplicity 2959, which at first glance, is a terror.

Jut look at that shiny turquoise mess!


But let's just zoom in a bit to the short variations, shall we? (Ignore the renegade bride at their feet.)

Aren't they charming?

So here's the plan: I'll be doing view C, with the body of the dress in a white cotton sateen ($6 a yard at AK Fabrics!), and the wrap at the bust will be in the flocked tulle.

I'll line in rayon bemberg, which will have a couple layers of tulle at the bottom for pouf, and I'm making an inner corselet with boning out of white cotton broadcloth, per the instructions in Susan Khalje's article in the latest Threads magazine ("Hidden Support," issue #145). Here's a tiny pic of this fantastic how-to:


I imagine I'll also be borrowing a lot of tips from "Sewing White Fabric" (Threads issue #106), as I'm a little terrified of getting this pristine fabric all grubby.

More to come!