B6453 Sew Along: Supplies and Prep

Okay, let's get this party started! I'm happy to report that the Facebook group for the Sew Along is almost up to 900 members. Please join here if you'd like. It's a great place to post photos, get advice, and generally cheer each other on.

In this post, I'll be talking about supplies you need and then answering some frequently asked questions about things like pre-washing, sizing, and making a muslin.

What supplies do I need? 

• The pattern for Butterick 6453
• Fabric in the amount listed on the back of the envelope and on the yardage tab on the pattern page. 
• Interfacing. Lightweight woven and tricot are my two favorite interfacings for garments. I avoid non-woven interfacing since it gives your gament a stiff, papery feel that I dislike.
• A 14" regular (not invisible) zipper. I use lapped zippers almost all the time for an authentic vintage look.
• A pair of 3/8" rings and sliders. Dritz sells them in sets with three colors, and you can find these at stores like Jo-Ann. I also love the metal rings and sliders that Tailor Made sells. 

What are the best fabrics to use? 

I love this dress in cottons like sateen, lawn, and poplin. Border prints could be used for either view, but are especially great on the full skirt version. I've also made it very successfully in rayon challis, which gives a much slinkier, softer look. Some silks and wools could work, but I would avoid anything too thick, as the straps would get too bulky, as would the skirt gathers on View A. 

I'm using one of my new sateens in a cute floral print, now arriving in Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores. 

Should I pre-wash my fabric? 

Cottons are easy to pre-wash, so yes if that's what you're using! I'm using one of my Gertie cotton sateens, and I like how they soften with machine washing and drying. My usual rule of thumb is to pre-wash if I intend to machine wash the garment after sewing. If I plan to dry clean or hand wash in cold water, it's not as important.

What size should I make? 

The biggest piece of advice I can give you here is to go by the finished pattern measurements which are printed on the tissue paper. These include the pattern ease, and are bigger than the body measurements on the size chart (fold on the flap of the pattern envelope). Butterick tends to add more ease than expected, so please check those pattern tissue sheets for the finished measurements! You will probably make a size smaller than you expect to from the size chart. 

What's the deal with all the ease? 

This is a tricky topic to discuss, but the ease conforms to Butterick's standards. However, in the photo on the envelope, the garment has much less ease. I fit this garment on myself with 0"-.5" of ease in the bust and waist, while Butterick gives the pattern 2.5" of ease. This means that if you want the garment to fit as it does on the envelope and in my pictures (with a tight vintage fit), you will probably need to go down 1-2 sizes from what the size chart says.

Size chart is on the envelope flap

Finished garment measurements can be found on the pattern tissue

What if my fabric is a little sheer? Can I line it? 

The border print sample you see on the envelope was a little sheer in the bodice so I underlined it! I used white cotton batiste and cut out it in the bodice pieces only. Then I basted the batiste to the sateen using a 1/2" seam allowance. The pieces are treated as one after basting. I finished the dress with a facing in the usual manner. Here's a photo of the inside of the dress.

You can definitely line your dress (though I won't be covering instructions for that). You can consult references like my book Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book for information on how to line a dress.

Should I make a muslin? 

I almost always make a bodice muslin, and now would be a good time to do that. Just use the main bodice pieces (not the facings) and sew them together along the princess and side seams. Stay stitch in a darker thread color along the neckline and waistline seamlines so you can get a good sense of where the neckline and waistline fall on your body. You can use ribbon or twill tape as a temporary strap for fitting. Pin up the back and check your fit. (Tip: you can also insert a dress length zipper into a bodice muslin for ease of fitting. The zipper will hang down to your hips, extending past the bodice muslin, which will help you get it on without help pinning.)

If you're concerned that you'll need an FBA (full bust adjustment), I'll have info on that next week. The Facebook group is a great place to post muslin pictures and ask for fitting advice. I love how everyone is supporting and helping each other in the group!

That's all I have for today; please let me know (or post in the FB group) if there are any other questions you have. 

New Butterick Patterns by Gertie for Fall!

It's that time again--time to feel incredulous that fall patterns are being released because it's definitely, totally still summer, right? Don't worry, it absolutely still is. But how about thinking about some patterns for a couple "transitional pieces" that will take you through the changing seasons? (That's a little easier to swallow, right?)

I have two new patterns out in my "Patterns by Gertie" line with Butterick. In a little change of pace for me, they're both very '40s-inspired rather than my usual '50s designs. The first is B6380, a sweetheart neckline dress with a gathered bust and swing skirt.

With this design, I wanted to create a dress that's timeless and easy to wear, but still really rooted in the glamorous '40s.

You can really see the details on the line drawing.

One of my favorite details is the "tiebacks" above the bust that create the sweetheart shape of the neckline. There's also a midriff, flared skirt, and short sleeves with gathers.

This dress is great for drapey wovens, like the rayon challis it's pictured in. (This is one of my Gertie fabrics from last fall, but I still have a bunch for sale in my Etsy shop.)

Here are a couple of my inspiration images from when I was planning the dress pattern. I love the subtle silhouette of this era, coupled with the soft gathers at the bustline.

The second pattern is B6390, and it's a cute yet casual jacket directly inspired by Rosie the Riveter and '40s work wear.

It has all sorts of topstitching to define the style lines.

I lined it in the same challis as the dress is made in! (Dorkiest photo ever?)

Here's the line drawing for this one.

I love the pattern envelope for this one. I look like I'm hanging with my tiny, much cooler friend. She's dubious about my styling choices.

And a couple of my inspiration images, so you can get an idea of where I was coming from.

The jacket in the photos above is made up in a denim-colored wool, but I also made this design in another fabric. Here it is in a polka dot linen-cotton blend, complete with Rosie the Riveter-inspired pose and Carmen Miranda earrings.

And the back, paired with a totally different dress.

A detail shot. This one is also lined in one of my rayon challis fabrics.

Hope you like the new patterns! Can't wait to see your versions of these!

New York Times Article on Home Sewing and the McCall Pattern Company!

Well, this is amazing. The New York Times has done an entire piece on the McCall Pattern Company and the home sewing industry! As you may know, my pattern line "Patterns by Gertie" is released by Butterick (one of McCall's pattern labels) and I was thrilled that the writer interviewed me for the piece. It's a really in-depth, detailed article on the past and future of the company, as well as home sewing in general. So, if you sew, you'll want to read this!

I've always been really proud to be a pattern designer with Butterick, partly because I have a strong nostalgia for the process of pattern shopping. So I was pretty excited to see this quote:

Gretchen Hirsch, a blogger, author and pattern designer who began sewing seriously 10 years ago when she was in her 20s, said the process of picking out a McCall pattern has not changed from when she visited fabric stores with her mother as a girl in the 1980s. 

“Going to a Jo-Ann’s and seeing those same old metal filing cabinets with the McCall’s and Butterick patterns inside — you know, the tissue, the instructions and the little envelope — I found it enormously comforting,” Ms. Hirsch said.

Another favorite quote?

“I’ve done this long enough to know that people have it in their hearts,” said Carolyne Cafaro, the creative director. “There could be one pattern company left in the world, but I do think people will always sew.”

I love that the piece conveys so much of the emotion surrounding home sewing, but it also tackles lots of other topics including the future of the industry in a digital age, the company's relationship with social media, and the DIY revolution. Not to mention a really fantastic slide show about the company archive, complete with pictures of a young Isaac Mizrahi and Charlize Theron.

In any case, it's pretty thrilling to see home sewing get such prominent media coverage. I'd love to hear your thoughts on the article!

New Summer Butterick: Sabrina/Marilyn Mashup, Dirndl Chic, and Tiki Separates

I have three new patterns out in my Butterick line for summer! An evening gown, a collection of Hawaiian resort separates, and a dirndl-inspired dress.

First, the evening gown! This is B6353.

As you may have guessed, this is almost entirely Sabrina inspired. The fabric, an embroidered organza, is part of my new special occasion fabric collection from Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores.

But look at the bust pleats and the pink illustration, and do you see the shades of Marilyn?

The gown has boning throughout, felt underlining for the bodice (that's how those pleats stay perky), a satin lining, a removable train, and a contrast belt.

As usual, I modeled the patterns! They were shot both on me and a model, so here they are. Believe me, I'm not crazy about showing my pictures side by side with a "real" model (that would require unshakeable body confidence from any woman). But I always like seeing designs on different body types when looking at a garment, don't you?

Here's the line drawing and pattern envelope. 

Next up, B6352 is a dirndl-inspired dress for every day wear. Dirndls: they're not just for October fest anymore!

I became dirndl-obsessed after my recent trips to Germany and Austria, and loved the idea of making a dirndl-ish dress that could be worn everyday. This design is my answer to that idea.

The dress has puff sleeves that resemble a dirndl blouse, a low-cut square neckline, princess seams, a front zipper, a gathered circle skirt with a hemline ruffle, and a waist sash that calls to mind the traditional dirndl apron.

I used mini pompom trim in the sleeve cuffs, neckline, and back princess seams for a fun take on the traditional use of piping in dirndls!

The skirt length is almost tea-length for a retro look. 

The fabric is a lovely rayon challis with allover roses and strawberries, also from my new collection. 

The pattern envelope shows how you can use contrast fabric for the princess panels (and wear sassy sunglasses). Cute!

Lastly, here's B6354, a collection of four tiki-inspired resort separates that can be worn layered or on their own. 

The idea here is that you can wear the bustier and shorts out on the beach . . . 

. . .  and then add a wrap skirt  and perhaps a bolero on top for a little coverage on the town!

You can see the details, as always, in the included line drawing. 

These pieces were sewn in a tropical print sateen. 

I hope you love the new patterns! You can get them on the Butterick website, or your local sewing supply store.