Guest Post: Colette Patterns Lace Insertion Tutorial

Today Sarai from Colette Patterns is here on the second stop of her blog tour for her new book--and she has an awesome tutorial to share. Welcome, Sarai! --Gertie

As a big fan of Gertie's blog, I'm happy to be joining you all here on the tour for my first book, The Colette Sewing Handbook! It's really wonderful how supportive the whole community of sewing bloggers has become, and Gertie is an especially wonderful example of that. Isn't it nice to see women supporting each other?

Today I'm going to share a tutorial for a decorative detail that didn't fit into my new book, but be sure to take a look at the link at the bottom as well to see a link to the giveaway I'm doing for the book plus five sewing patterns!

First, a little bit about the book. I wrote The Colette Sewing Handbook as a guide to the five fundamental areas of sewing that I think are so often confusing or challenging for the beginner (and even intermediate) sewist: planning your projects, working with patterns, getting a good fit, understanding fabric, and finishing techniques.

The book is designed to be a hands-on tool for learning these concepts, so each of those five sections has a project to go with it. The final project is the lined dress above, called Licorice.

Personally, I am a big fan of little details that you can add to just about any sewing project to change the look. After I've made a pattern once and spent some time getting the fit right and familiarizing myself with the design, I like to make it up in different ways, using different fabrics and switching up some of the construction details and embellishment.

Today, I thought I'd show you one of those details that didn't quite fit into the book. It's an easy way to add a simple lace insertion, using the Licorice dress. It involves just a teensy bit of pattern manipulation, and it's a great way to work through your stash of lace (I have a ton).

tools needed:
* Dress or skirt pattern. I'm using the Licorice dress from The Colette Sewing Handbook, sewn in a lovely woven mint green silk.
* Lace (about a yard to a yard and a half)
* Ruler
* Pen

First, decide how far from the bottom of the skirt you'd like to place the insertion. I like the way they look a few inches above the hem, but I think multiple insertions around the skirt would also look pretty amazing. Or a really wide one further up. It's up to you.

On your pattern pieces, start by marking the seam allowance on the lower hem. For this dress, the seam allowance is 5/8".

Draw a line parallel to the hem, whatever distance you've decided for the insertion, on both the front and back pieces. Drawing in the seam allowance on the previous step lets you position the insertion just where you want it. Cut your pattern pieces along this line.

Now you have a choice:

(a) If you're using lace that's wider than 1/2", you'll be adding a little length to your skirt. If you don't mind that, you can go ahead and proceed to the next step.

or

(b) If you want to avoid adding any length, that's easy too.  Just take the width of your lace and subtract 1/2". Trim that amount off the bottom of the dress front and back. So, for example, if your lace is 2", trim 1 1/2" off the bottom of the dress front and back pattern pieces at this point.

Mark the pieces so they don't get mixed up.

Cut out all the fabric pieces and sew the dress as instructed. Stop before sewing the center back seam.

With right sides together, stitch the front lower hem to the back lower hem at the side seams, finish the seams and press.

Now that you have the dress sewn together, measure around the bottom of the dress and cut a piece of lace long enough to fit. Add a couple inches to make sure you've cut it long enough.

Fold the bottom hem of the dress under 1/4" and press. Fold another 1/4" and press.

Do the same on the lower hem piece, along the top. Fold the top under 1/4", press, fold again 1/4" and press.

Pin the lace to the bottom of the dress, placing the right side of the lace onto the wrong side of the dress. Align the edge of the lace with the hem crease.

Stitch the lace in place on the dress.

Flip the dress to the right side and edgestitch the bottom of the hem to the dress. The two rows of stitching will keep the edges of the dress neat on both the inside and outside.

Repeat the last two steps for the lower hem pieces.

We used a slightly scalloped lace for this insertion, which worked fine. You may just need to adjust the position of the lace a little if your lace has a shaped edge like this.

Finish sewing the dress, putting in the back zipper, sewing the back seam, and hemming. You may want to shorten the lining on the dress, unless you're using a natural color that won't be obvious through the lace.

And there you are, a simple insertion that you can use on just about any skirt, dress, sleeve… you name it.

For a totally different take on this dress using an insertion, check out this daisy insertion I did during my Spring Palette Challenge project earlier this year. I used a silk-linen blend fabric for that dress, removed the sleeves, added basically a big ruffle for a cape neckline, and did an insertion using vintage daisy trim.

Giveaway

Thanks for joining me today for this stop on the tour! To see the other blogs that are participating and enter the giveaway to win a copy of the book plus five sewing patterns of your own choice, visit my post about the blog tour.

Thanks Gertie!

Pants Are Weird

{Not my butt; photo courtesy of Colette Patterns}

Have you ever sat around and thought about the way pants are sewn? I spent some time doing just that yesterday and it really messes with one's head. Isn't it kind of mind-blowing the way the pieces sew together to form the shape that they do? Personally, I think that's why they're so hard to fit. It's impossible to look at those flat pieces and understand where all the points are going to end up. For me, anyway.

I fit my Clover pants (modeled yesterday), mostly through an understanding of issues that I have in ready-to-wear: the ever-present gaping back waist and the weirdly low back. But I long to really understand how pants are supposed to fit and how to make them do so. So I went ahead and ordered Pants for Real People, hoping for some major insight.

To be honest, I just don't get the crotch at all. You know how Michael Kors is always shrieking something like "that crotch is craaazy!" on Project Runway? I don't make a lot of pants because I live in fear of the craaazy crotch. I'm hoping that my new fitting book will have a lot of insights into the crotch issue. (Tee hee!)

Are any of you out there pants-fitting wizards? How did you come to understand these wacky bifurcated garments anyway?

P.S. I would be remiss if I didn't mention Colette's great pants-fitting cheatsheet!

Up in the Air in Clover Pants and a Liz Blouse

Technology is an amazing thing, readers. This morning I was rushing out of the apartment to get my flight to Orlando (heading to the Southern Women's Show with BurdaStyle, y'all!) I've made a few separates lately and haven't even gotten around to blogging them (the horror). So after I dressed in my new Colette Patterns Clover pants and BurdaStyle Liz blouse this morning, I had Jeff take a picture with his phone. He then e-mailed it to me, I downloaded it on my laptop, and now I'm writing this from 30,000 feet in the air with in-flight wi-fi. The mind reels.

Anyway, I know it's not the best detail shot, but at least I'm blogging a sewing project, right? The Clover pattern was really quick and fun, and I made it in a thick rayon doubleknit. So comfy! I had some fitting issues in my posterior region, which is--ahem--not insignificant on my frame. I didn't make an official muslin, since I needed a stretch fabric to get the fit right. I took a risk and knew this version may not be wearable, but it totally is, after a few tweaks. I had the very-familiar-to-me problem of a gaping center back seam and the waistband dipping down at the back. The fix for the gaping was easy--I took out an inch at center back. But the dipping was an issue that should be solved in flat pattern by lengthening the back crotch. Instead, I added an inch to the center back top of the waistband, tapering to the side seams. It worked like a charm! I may still have some thigh/front crotch issues to work out, more to come on that exciting topic.

I made the blouse as a sample for season 2 of It's Sew Easy, since I show a simple retro pattern tweak on it in my episode. This version is made in the best fabric of all time, Liberty of London's Carmine print. I could only wear this print and be happy. I could decorate my entire apartment in it and not get sick of it.

So there you have it. An outfit.

Any of you live in Orlando? Anyone going to the Southern Women's Show?

Sew-Along Prep: An Interview with the Designer!

We're gearing up to the big Lady Grey Sew Along! I have a special treat for you today: Sarai Mitnick of Colette Patterns, the very talented creator of this pattern, is here to answer a few questions in preparation.

Gertie: Which era was the inspiration for this design?

Sarai: I don't think there was one particular era I had in mind for the coat, actually. The wide collar and wrap style seems vaguely 40s noir-ish to me, the overall ladylike shaping and bracelet length sleeves is a bit 50s, and the short length feels a little 60s. Maybe that's one reason I think the coat can go so many different ways, depending on fabric choice.

A Blog for Better Sewing Sew-Along?

Sew-alongs are in the air . . . and I want in on the action! Would you be interested in a Gertie-hosted sew-along? I posted the idea on my Facebook page yesterday, and the response was quite positive. Now I'd like to hear from the rest of you too!

Here's what I'm thinking:

• Coats for fall! I know coats are an advanced project, but I hope that by providing some technical (and moral) support I can have you all tailoring like crazy. Please let me know if you think I'm out of my mind and that we should start with something easier. 
• So, we should all probably use the same pattern, right? (I'm such a sew-along newb!) LOTS of peeps mentioned the Colette Patterns Lady Grey Coat on Facebook, and I think it could be the perfect choice. Besides being gorgeous, it's a fairly easy entree into the world of coats. One could even think of it as a jacket! The wrap design is easy to fit and isn't too complicated in terms of closures. Another plus is that for those in the Southern Hemisphere, this coat can be made in a lightweight spring fabric, like cotton twill.
• In order to give everyone plenty of prep time, we won't start until mid to late September.
• I'll go over each step of the planning, fitting, and construction, add some fancy (but totally do-able) tailoring techniques like pad-stitching, and provide videos for visual aids.
• I'd like to figure out a way to make this a community project, so that we can see pictures from participants and answer questions as we go along. 

So what do you think? Are you interested? Do you like the coat idea? What would you like out of a sew-along?

Can't wait to hear your thoughts!

Blogiversary Giveaway!

In celebration of my one-year blogging anniversary, I'm thrilled to announce a lovely giveaway. Two readers will each win a $25 Colette Patterns gift certificate! I knew this was the perfect prize for this occasion - Colette Patterns are vintage inspired and drafted in a wide range of modern sizes. Plus, the styles are gorgeous. What's not to love? (I'm personally hankering for the new "Cinnamon" slip and camisole pattern, shown above.)

To enter, just leave a comment on this post by midnight EST on Friday, the 25th. Readers from all locations are eligible. I will choose two winners by random number generator on Saturday.

Thanks to Sarai of Colette Patterns for sponsoring part of this prize!

Colette Patterns Sale

Good evening, dears! I'm just popping in to tell you about a cool sale happening soon at Colette Patterns. My friend and designer extraordinaire Sarai wrote to give us the heads-up that she'll be sending out a 30% off coupon with her mailing list tomorrow. If you want in on that (and I know you do!) head on over to this post on the Colette Patterns blog. You just need to sign up for the mailing list to get the coupon. Happy pattern shopping!

Design Ideas for Button-Back Blouses

So, you've probably noticed by now how I love my button-back blouses. I've made five of them at this point, using either my vintage VoNBBS pattern or Colette Patterns Sencha. I've recently noticed some fabulous ready-to-wear blouses with similar shapes. For instance, the above blouse is from ModCloth and I think it's gorgeous. Wouldn't it be fun to use a simple lace overlay like this on a blouse project? The back is also strikingly similar to a vintage pattern with its tucks and covered buttons. This got me thinking about how to customize these patterns even further. So grab on to your Sencha patterns, everyone! Let's look at some design details that you can draft yourself.

I've done some more research into button-back blouse patterns of the 40s and 50s, and I've found that there are lots of ways that you can spice these tops up. And there's no need to spend a load of cash on vintage patterns. Just one basic (like the Sencha) pattern that you've fitted to your body can serve as the template for all these ideas. Just have a good patternmaking book handy, like Adele P. Margolis's Make Your Own Dress Patterns.

1. Yokes

An interesting yoke can add a fabulous touch to these blouses, and all it takes it the addition of a seam. I love the unusual yoke on McCall 7597.

Simplicity 1868 has a curved yoke. I love the look of the lace overlays on a yoke too!

2. Lowered Necklines

Another great way to vary these blouses is to draw in a lower neckline, in either a scoop or U shape. Look at the awesome addition of rickrack trim to a u-neckline on Simplicity 2345:

3. Collars

Collars are a classic addition to a simple blouse pattern. (See the first two parts of my Peter Pan collar tutorial here and here!)

This pattern combines gathers with a Peter Pan collar to great effect.


4. Waistbands

I love the idea of adding a waistband to a blouse, as in the pattern below (notice the pin tucks and Peter Pan collar too!) In fact, I might just try this next . . .

5. Neckline gathers and drapes

To amp up the soft feminimity of these blouses, try lovely neckline gathers, like on McCall 6453.

And check out the dramatic draping on this pattern. I die.

As you've probably noticed, a lot of these patterns combine two or more of these elements. Go crazy! How about neckline gathers with a waistband and a Peter Pan collar? The sky's the limit! Got any other ideas to make some fab blouses? Let's hear 'em!

Sencha, Dressed Down

As promised: me modeling my green Sencha blouse! The great thing about these retro button-back blouses is that they look just as great with jeans or cords as with a pencil skirt. I think it's a super cute weekend look when paired with some victory rolls and Chucks.

I am so digging the rayon drapey-ness of this fabric.

Here's a back view. When untucked, you get a cute little split at the bottom of the blouse.
You can really see the waistline tucks in this picture.



A perfect weekend outfit, I think. I made a size 8 (Colette Patterns sizes are closer to ready-to-wear than traditional sewing patterns), and it's roomy enough to be comfortable but fitted enough to look great tucked into a skirt.

I feel like I could use one of these blouses in every color! Ah, if only I had the time . . .

Speaking of time, editing the second and third parts of my Peter Pan collar video tutorial is taking me longer than expected. But Part Two will be up this weekend! (If you missed it, check out the first part here.)

Sencha + Jenny = True Love Forever

Ah, love. We already know that pencil skirts and blouses go together like peanut butter and jelly. Throw in some suspenders and a Peter Pan collar and that's a recipe for awesomeness, in my opinion.

This skirt is BurdaStyle's Jenny skirt, and I spent a lot of time fitting it - to my actual measurements, no less! I started by cutting a 44 in the hips and a 42 in the waist, and ended up taking it in more in the waist and upper hip. (Yeah, okay, I'm a pear. FINE.) I like my skirts below the knee, and I had to add an extra three inches to this pattern to get it there. (Seriously, skirts are getting shorter every day, aren't they?!) I also changed the waistband layout. The pattern had it cut on the bias, and then stretched to fit the skirt pieces. I didn't really like the idea of having to stretch out the fabric to get it to fit, so I cut it on the straight grain instead. This meant that the waistband needed to be just a little bigger, since it wouldn't be stretched on the bias. So I made sure that the seams lined up as I was checking the pattern. Anyway, I'm so pleased with the fit of the skirt and I know I'll be making this pattern again and again. One of my favorite things about it is that it tapers in at the knee, creating a super curvy silhouette.

The fabric I used is a black cotton stretch sateen, and I lined it with a hot pink stretch poly lining fabric.

The blouse, made from Colette Pattern's Sencha, is in a rayon polka dot print. I drafted the Peter Pan collar myself. Tutorial is on its way!

I crossed the skirt suspenders in the back for extra cuteness (and so they'd stay up).

Suspenders are handy for tucking your thumbs into. Also: behold my lime green pumps! (I finally got Jeff to understand the importance of getting the shoes in the pictures.)

Anyway, I give both these patterns a big thumbs up! If you're looking for basic retro-style separates that you can personalize, these definitely fit the bill.

Sencha Blouse in Polka Dots (Naturally!)

Oh, cruel irony. When Casey showed us pictures of her lovely Sencha blouse on her dress form, I brattily demanded to see pictures of her in it. Now I've made my own Sencha (two actually!) and what am I doing? Posting pictures of it on my dress form, naturally. Oh, cruel irony indeed.

This week has been a little rough, with a cold keeping me in bed today. While I didn't exactly take the day off, it was lovely to work while bundled up in my flannel pajamas. I hope to get caught up on photos and the Peter Pan collar video tutorial this weekend.

Anyway, the Sencha is a lovely little blouse pattern from Colette Patterns and was a joy to sew, just like all of Sarai's patterns. I used a rayon print from New York Elegant Fabrics, and it drapes so nicely!

Come back soon for more pictures and more Senchas! Just as soon as I get out of my jammies, I swear . . .

Covered Button Tutorial

I like to use matching covered buttons on my blouses, and a few of you have asked for a tutorial on how to make your own covered buttons. I've hesitated up until now because all I did was buy a Dritz covered button kit and follow the instructions. Lately, though, I haven't been happy with my results while using slippery fabrics like silk or rayon. But over the weekend I discovered a really nifty trick that makes the process much easier and more professional looking. I'm really quite pleased with myself, to be honest. Read on to see the tutorial!

You'll still need a covered button kit (the ones marked "refill" are fine, you don't need the silly tools included in the basic kit). The first thing to do is cut out your circles of fabric, based on the pattern on the back of the package.

Take your fabric circles to your machine. Using a long basting stitch (4mm is a good length), stitch all the way around the edge of the circles, using a 1/4" seam allowance. Leave long thread tails. Cut off the upper thread tails, leaving just the bobbin threads hanging.

Pull the bobbin threads up, causing the circle to gather. Don't pull it all the way closed, just let it form a little cup.
Put your upper button piece face-down into the little fabric cup.
Now, pull the bobbin threads tight so that the fabric is snug around the button.

Keeping the threads pulled taut, snap the back of the button on.

Cut off the thread tails.
Voila! Lovely covered buttons.

That's all there is to it. I used these little polka dot buttons on a blouse made from Colette Patterns Sencha blouse. I'll model it for some pictures later, but here's a sneak peek of the back.

You'll notice that my version of this blouse has a little Peter Pan collar, which isn't included with the pattern. But guess what? Coming later this week is a video tutorial on drafting a Peter Pan collar yourself! I'm super excited about it, and I hope you love it.

P.S. Question: are you all able to easily get these Dritz covered button kits? Let me know if not. I'm sure there's a way to do this tutorial without the kit, perhaps using regular shank buttons and wrapping the shank in buttonhole twist or something? Hmm, I'll think on it.

Colette Patterns Rooibos Dress

Here it is! The lovely pattern I tested for the new Colette Patterns line. This is the Rooibos dress, which I adored the moment I saw the pattern.


This is a sweet little number with the flattering shape and retro details that Colette Patterns is becoming known for.

The tiny collar is formed by a facing in a contrasting fabric, which provides lots of opportunity to play around with color and texture.

The only changes I made were to raise the neckline about half an inch and add two little buttons on the front bodice. The fabric I used is a camel-colored wool for the body and black silk charmeuse as a contrast. The pattern provides optional instructions for piping the neckline and pockets, and I did both, using a store-bought package of black satiny piping.

This project came together very quickly. I cut it out one night, and sewed it up in a few hours the next day. A total joy to sew! I know a lot of you are drooling over the new line, and I think this one is a must-have. I'm even considering making it again in a different color scheme.

And here's a video if you'd like to see the dress in action! Are you sick of these yet? I hope not! It was a lot easier to get in details like the piped pockets on video.