And the Dorkiest Couple Award Goes to . . .

Hey, if Jeff and I had known each other in high school and gone to prom together, this is kind of what our picture would have looked like! Of course, I probably wouldn't have been holding a giant pair of scissors. And the prom scenario would have been an impossibility in the time/space continuum since I am so much more youthful than Jeff. (Six years! I'll never let him forget it either!)

But why am I holding a giant pair of scissors, you ask? We were at the BurdaStyle book launch! And well, they were there. Jeff's glasses were another acquired prop. He now thinks he should get glasses like that, but I think he should step off my turf because I had Buddy Holly glasses first.

We had a great time at the launch. Beside a digital photo booth, there was also a lady giving glitter tattoos. (The line was too long for that, so I eventually gave up.)

But the guest of honor was, of course, the book itself.

It looks fabulous. I do have a project in it, this cute little bag variation.

I call it my "weekend in the country bag" and it was inspired by the casual straw handbags that ladies used to carry on vacation.

So that's the news to report on that front. I hope I can have a book launch party that's half as cool as this one was. (Note to self: find corporate sponsor asap.)

This weekend I'm teaching at Heather Ross's sewing retreat right here in New York City! It's being held at the Sewing Studio, where I work, so that's awfully convenient for me. Tonight we're having a private shopping event at Purl Soho. I'm sure I'll need to buy myself something pretty as a souvenir.

Also, my dad is coming to town and we're going to see Wicked on Broadway on Sunday. I can't wait to see the costumes.

Man, my life does sound kind of glamorous right now, doesn't it? Well, don't worry, I'm still writing this in my jammies drinking coffee. Some things never change.

Have a fab weekend, readers!

Up in the Air in Clover Pants and a Liz Blouse

Technology is an amazing thing, readers. This morning I was rushing out of the apartment to get my flight to Orlando (heading to the Southern Women's Show with BurdaStyle, y'all!) I've made a few separates lately and haven't even gotten around to blogging them (the horror). So after I dressed in my new Colette Patterns Clover pants and BurdaStyle Liz blouse this morning, I had Jeff take a picture with his phone. He then e-mailed it to me, I downloaded it on my laptop, and now I'm writing this from 30,000 feet in the air with in-flight wi-fi. The mind reels.

Anyway, I know it's not the best detail shot, but at least I'm blogging a sewing project, right? The Clover pattern was really quick and fun, and I made it in a thick rayon doubleknit. So comfy! I had some fitting issues in my posterior region, which is--ahem--not insignificant on my frame. I didn't make an official muslin, since I needed a stretch fabric to get the fit right. I took a risk and knew this version may not be wearable, but it totally is, after a few tweaks. I had the very-familiar-to-me problem of a gaping center back seam and the waistband dipping down at the back. The fix for the gaping was easy--I took out an inch at center back. But the dipping was an issue that should be solved in flat pattern by lengthening the back crotch. Instead, I added an inch to the center back top of the waistband, tapering to the side seams. It worked like a charm! I may still have some thigh/front crotch issues to work out, more to come on that exciting topic.

I made the blouse as a sample for season 2 of It's Sew Easy, since I show a simple retro pattern tweak on it in my episode. This version is made in the best fabric of all time, Liberty of London's Carmine print. I could only wear this print and be happy. I could decorate my entire apartment in it and not get sick of it.

So there you have it. An outfit.

Any of you live in Orlando? Anyone going to the Southern Women's Show?

Small Screen Skirt

This is one of the skirts I made for my big TV debut! It's the Linda skirt (available at BurdaStyle) made up in a green hammered silk/wool blend from B&J. They have this fabric in an amazing range of jewel tones, including a gorgeous azalea color. I just adore this emerald tone.

The technique I was demonstrating was adding horsehair braid to a hem for fullness, and this skirt uses a super-wide 4" horsehair for a very dramatic effect. Twirly! You can read my horsehair braid tutorial here.

I doubled the width of the waistband and added a big statement button with rhinestones. 

I love this pattern; it's a great classic and extremely easy to make. A few hints: 1) I would recommend going a size down if you're going for a retro look, and 2) definitely let your skirt hang for 24 hours before marking the hem to let the bias sections settle, and 3) you may need to run a row of gathering stitches at the top of the skirt to ease it into the waistband. Also, a lapped zipper is a really nice touch.

It gets a little "sock hop" with the sweater and ponytail, so I added leopard kitten heels for a little edge. I'm also feeling sick of wearing glasses, so I took them off for this little photo shoot. Time for contacts?

BurdaStyle Book: Me Too!

Hey, are you sick of sewing bloggers going on about their projects for the BurdaStyle Book that they can talk about (vaguely), but they can't share with you? Because I'm about to join them! (Sorry 'bout that.) I, too, am contributing a design variation to the book. Is it a dress? A coat? No, friends. It is . . . a BAG.

This is possibly as surprising to you as it is to me. You see, I never make bags. I also care not a fig about them, usually opting for an old canvas tote as my daily bag (blogged a bit here). But that's okay! I've been asked to contribute a bag, and contribute it I shall!

The project started like this: the Burda folks sent me line drawings for two designs: a dress and a bag. They asked me to come up with two design variations for each, and (gulp) sketch them. Upon viewing the sketches, they would decide which of my variations would be included in the book. I, of course, spent all my time thinking about dress designs - 50s and early 60s-inspired, of course. I couldn't imagine they would really have me do a bag! (Oh, the hubris.) My bag designs were a bit of an afterthought, I confess. I eagerly waited to hear which of my two dresses they would have me make. (Hubris. Gets you every time.)

Well, to make a long story short . . . they choose a bag. Hey, that's cool! It's been an interesting journey nonetheless. My outer fabric and the thread were sent to me by sponsoring companies, and the rest of the notions have been left up to me. So I'll confess that I've spent weeks staring confusedly at purse handles of all things. There are so many different types! I've been to Pacific Trim on at least five different occasions to look at the handles, but left empty-handed each time. But with my deadline looming next Tuesday, I am forced to make a decision. Tomorrow I will march back into Pacific Trim, and I won't leave until I have some handles, dammit! (A note on the deadline: I'm lucky that my office is a block and a half from the BurdaStyle office, so no mailing in the project for me! I plan to sashay in at the last minute and bestow my bag upon them. Okay, not really. I expect to beat the deadline by a whole day!)

The nice thing about bags is that they don't take too long to make and there's no fitting required. I did, however, make a muslin just to get the lay of the land, so to speak. So I feel confident about finishing up the bag this weekend, as long as I get a handle on the handle situation (heh).

I can't tell you much about the design and all that (blah, blah, I know) but I can tell you that it has a vintage flair and that it was inspired by the book A Guide to Elegance. It's not a dress, but I hope you will like it just the same.

Wish me luck!

The Emma Outfit

It's done! This is the outfit inspired by one of my favorite TV characters: Emma Pillsbury of Glee. As you may recall, I wrote about my quest to recreate a particular outfit of hers here.

Here's the inspiration:

And the Gertie-fied version.

Not bad, eh? Guys, I love this outfit. (Not to toot my own horn.) The blouse was made from a 1960 pattern and the skirt is BurdaStyle's Jenny (which I've made before in black with suspenders). If I had to live with only one skirt pattern for the rest of my life, it would be this one. No joke. To get the bow version, I made the waistband a little narrower (so it came to 2" wide, to be exact). The bow pattern was easy enough to make - it's just two rectangles.

The fabric I used is the "Fancy Italian RPL" from Gorgeous Fabrics. Oh, how I love this fabric. It has a sort of crepe-like texture to it, and it's both comfy and flattering. I lined the skirt in Ambiance rayon lining, and I cut it on the bias. I read that this can be helpful if your garment fabric has some stretch to it, but it really just made the lining very hard to work with. I don't think I'll be doing that again. If you want your lining to stretch, it's easier just to buy a stretch lining, in my opinion.

Here's the lining. I stitched some lace to the bottom for extra prettiness. It's like a creamsicle!

The blouse was made from this lovely pattern, McCalls 5226.

It was kind of hard to fit, but it turned out well in the end . . . aside from the fact that the bust darts are a smidge too high. (Yes, I should have made a muslin!) I actually lined the blouse too, since the rayon I used was a little on the sheer side. I used a rayon lining matched to my skin tone, and followed these excellent instructions for quick-lining. I love how professional it looks to attach the lining to the facing. It became a sort of underlining/lining hybrid since I stitched the sleeve hems to the lining.

I love the look on my face here in this next shot. Yeah, I'm wearing an orange skirt with a bow on it. Wanna make somethin' of it?

And here you can see the skirt length better.

That's it, folks! I've also made another blouse and skirt in the meantime (both 40s-styled) which I suppose I'll photograph next weekend. (It's so hard to photograph anything during the workweek!) This week, it's back to the grind on my the background dress - with muslin number two!

Suspender Skirts of Yore: a Snappy Timeline

My suspendered Jenny skirt was made from a contemporary pattern, but I was moved to make it after seeing a similar silhouette on a 50s pattern. I sported the look to work yesterday, and was pleasantly surprised by how flattering and wearable it was. I was compelled to look a bit more into vintage patterns with similar details, and I was blown away by my findings. I discovered suspender skirt patterns from the 30s - and every subsequent decade on! I honestly didn't realize what a ubiquitous garment this was for the majority of the 20th century.

Want to see the vintage pattern gems my research turned up? Snap on your suspenders and follow me for a magical mystery tour of suspender skirts through the decades!

The Thirties
Lovely Etsy seller Wearing History had the above pattern for sale (sadly, it's now sold) with this fascinating bit of background:

The suspender skirt came in with swing and collegiate styles in the late 30s, and also the Tyrolean or alpine influence, which is why this pattern has the option for an attached apron made in a printed cotton after the folk style that came back. It has a high waistline and suspenders that button in place behind pointed tabs.

Indeed, this is a style that lends itself to both a preppy-chic look as well as a Bavarian/folkloric vibe, and I found both of these styles in my research.

The Forties
On the more collegiate side of things, this darling pattern from the 40s is classic and clean with a gored skirt. Meet you on the quad, ladies!

The Fifties
The suspender skirt styles of the 50s seemed to skew a bit more juvenile, with the patterns being made only for little girls and teens, as far as I could tell. Emblematic of the decade, the skirts were either very full or very slim. Check out the adorable envelope art on the pattern above - how cute is the bit with the puppy?! Love!

Here's the slim skirted teen pattern from my collection that sparked my interest in the Jenny skirt.


The Sixties
It's a mod mod world, baby! Love the chic silhouette of this junior pattern from 1965.

The Seventies

The Bavarian influence comes back in the form of boho chic! There are so many things to say about this pattern below, and so little time.


The Eighties

The 80s never disappoint, do they? This pattern would create an . . . interesting bustline, don't you think?

The Nineties

On the above pattern: Can't you just see View C on Cher from Clueless?

The pattern illustrations below demonstrate Laura Ashley tendencies, but I actually love the look the gal in the front is working. Polka dots and statement glasses: you know I dig it!


Interesting to note that in the 80s and 90s, the suspender skirt moved away from the lederhosen/folksy look.

. . . and Today!

BurdaStyle brings the suspender skirt back in '10! I love that the saddle shoes and crisp button-down hint at the style's vintage-preppy roots.

Thanks for joining me on this exploration of suspender skirts of yore! The cool thing about this style is that it's easy to incorporate into any skirt pattern - just slap on a pair of suspender straps. What do you think? Will you be sewing any of these looks - vintage or contemporary?

Sencha + Jenny = True Love Forever

Ah, love. We already know that pencil skirts and blouses go together like peanut butter and jelly. Throw in some suspenders and a Peter Pan collar and that's a recipe for awesomeness, in my opinion.

This skirt is BurdaStyle's Jenny skirt, and I spent a lot of time fitting it - to my actual measurements, no less! I started by cutting a 44 in the hips and a 42 in the waist, and ended up taking it in more in the waist and upper hip. (Yeah, okay, I'm a pear. FINE.) I like my skirts below the knee, and I had to add an extra three inches to this pattern to get it there. (Seriously, skirts are getting shorter every day, aren't they?!) I also changed the waistband layout. The pattern had it cut on the bias, and then stretched to fit the skirt pieces. I didn't really like the idea of having to stretch out the fabric to get it to fit, so I cut it on the straight grain instead. This meant that the waistband needed to be just a little bigger, since it wouldn't be stretched on the bias. So I made sure that the seams lined up as I was checking the pattern. Anyway, I'm so pleased with the fit of the skirt and I know I'll be making this pattern again and again. One of my favorite things about it is that it tapers in at the knee, creating a super curvy silhouette.

The fabric I used is a black cotton stretch sateen, and I lined it with a hot pink stretch poly lining fabric.

The blouse, made from Colette Pattern's Sencha, is in a rayon polka dot print. I drafted the Peter Pan collar myself. Tutorial is on its way!

I crossed the skirt suspenders in the back for extra cuteness (and so they'd stay up).

Suspenders are handy for tucking your thumbs into. Also: behold my lime green pumps! (I finally got Jeff to understand the importance of getting the shoes in the pictures.)

Anyway, I give both these patterns a big thumbs up! If you're looking for basic retro-style separates that you can personalize, these definitely fit the bill.

Supplies for Sewing Vintage

Happy Friday, everyone! This week on BurdaStyle, my guest post is about essential tools for working with vintage patterns. These are the things I've found I can't live without after making half the patterns from Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing. Come by to check it out!

Stop by BurdaStyle every Thursday for a guest post about vintage sewing from yours truly!

Choosing Fabrics for Vintage Patterns

Hello and happy Friday, friends! This week on BurdaStyle, my guest post is about choosing the right fabrics for vintage sewing patterns. I find that's often one of the most confusing aspects of sewing styles from times gone by - we just don't have the same fabrics widely available anymore, sadly. Come by and read my tips!

Speaking of fabric, isn't the 40s rayon print pictured above just darling? There are several small(ish) pieces available from this Etsy seller.

Retro Wardrobe Essentials on BurdaStyle

This week on BurdaStyle, I channeled my inner style guru and listed the five retro pieces that are essentials in any wardrobe. Stop by to see if you agree with my choices!

Check the BurdaStyle Blog every week for my guest post on vintage sewing!

Plus-Size Vintage Sewing

Did you know this fab Claire McCardell pattern is available in a true reproduction in bust sizes 32" to 50"? Plus size ladies needn't shy away from sewing vintage. Au contraire! Today on BurdaStyle, my guest post has tips for sewing the full-figured retro wardrobe of your dreams. Stop by to read the full article!

Check back every week for a new guest post by moi on the BurdaStyle blog!

Thoughts on Vintage Pattern Instructions

Hey, everybody! It's BurdaStyle Thursday! That means that my weekly guest post on sewing vintage is up for your reading pleasure. This week I discuss the evolution of sewing pattern instructions - from the 30's until today. I also derive some harebrained theories based upon the lovely "Lady's Overall" pattern shown above.

So please come by and check it out - and present some theories of your own!

Marking Unprinted Patterns

It's a two-post day, in celebration of BurdaStyle Thursday! Today, my guest post on the BurdaStyle blog is about using vintage patterns that are unprinted. (Up until the mid-50's, patterns were marked with perforations, rather than black printed marks like we have now. This can be a little disorienting until you get used to it.) As a little companion piece, I'm posting here on the two methods that I use for marking with vintage patterns.

Marking unprinted patterns is like a line from a police interrogation scene: "We can do this the easy way or we can do this the hard way." So let's start with the easy way: chalk marking.

Start by pinning your pattern to the fabric and cutting it out. Here's what it will look like. (This is the front pattern piece of the Peter Pan collar version of the bow-tied blouse, FYI.)

Take a piece of tailor's chalk and use it to color in the little holes on the front. (See my BurdasStyle piece today for info on determining which holes are crucial to mark, and which aren't.)

Next, mark the back. To do this, poke a pin through each hole.

Then turn the pattern piece over and make a mark by the pinpoint on the back. Voila! Both sides will be marked.

Now, for the hard way: tailor's tacks. This really isn't all that hard (just more time-consuming), and it's great for fabrics that don't take chalk marks well.

Start by threading a needle with thread in a color that will stand out on your fabric. Make it a double thread, and do not knot the ends.align="center">

Next, take a little bite out of both layers of the fabric, inside the perforation you want to mark. Do not catch any of the pattern tissue.

Pull the thread through, and then repeat this stitch, making a little thread loop.

Once you've marked all the perforations you need to, unpin the pattern tissue and pull it off the fabric. Your trusty little thread loops will remain.

Next, pull your two layers of fabric apart and snip the threads between them.

Now you have marks on both sides of both pieces of the fabric! Hooray!

That's all there is to it. Any questions? Ask away in the comments!