Knit Wrap Top Sew-Along #3: Cutting and Marking

B6285 wrap top with the ties knotted in the back

Ready? Okay! Time to cut and mark our B6285 wrap tops.

Now, the most important thing I want you to know is this: This top is self-lined. That means it looks the same on the inside as the outside (anyone want to try a reversible one?!). This also means that you need to cut doubles of everything--it's like making two tops. 

Here is what I suggest. We're going to cut and mark one set of pattern pieces, and then repeat this process for the lining set. If you're in a rush, you can try making two double layers of fabric and cutting both sets at once, but it gets tricky and less accurate when you're cutting four layers of jersey.

You only have two pattern pieces.

Piece #1 is the top front and back. There's no shoulder seam, so it's all one piece. Piece #2 is the tie.

They get cut out on a double layer of fabric, with the selvages matching at the top and the fold at the bottom.

So lay out your fabric on your table with the right sides together, and place the pieces like this. Make sure the fabric is as smooth as possible, and that it doesn't twist as you're laying it out.

See how the selvages are on top of each other at the upper right corner? And then the fold is at the bottom.

After the pieces are pinned in place, cut! This is a great time to use serrated cutting shears (they grab the jersey so it doesn't slip around) or a rotary cutter.

Once you've cut around the two pieces, start by clipping into any notches. It's much easier to just make one little snip into the point of the notch rather than try to cut out the triangle shape of the notch.

Next, transfer any circles, like the ones on the end of the ties. I like to do this with a disappearing ink pen. First, place pins into the center of the circle.

Then, use your marking pen to make a circle on both wrong sides at the pin point.

Other important circles to mark are located at the Center Back on piece #1 (above the triple notch):

And the side seam of piece #1, where there are two circles.

Next, mark your dart on piece #1. It can be difficult to use a tracing wheel on knits, so here's how I do it. First, clip into the legs of the dart.

Then, mark the little circle at the top of the dart, using the pin method as above.

When you take off the tissue, you can use a ruler and your marking pen to connect the clips to the circle.

Alternatively, if you're feeling gutsy, you can just use the clips to fold together the dart and then stitch in a (hopefully) straight line to your circle point when you sew the dart.

Okay, now all your circles and darts are marked, and you have made little clips into all the triangular notches. Remove the pattern tissue from your cut pieces, and then repeat the whole process so that you have two sets of everything!

Now you have two pairs of pattern piece #1 and two pairs of pattern piece #2.

Next time, we'll start sewing! In the meantime, let me know if you have any questions.

Update: in response to the FBA issue! Here's a quickie idea. Cut along the green lines indicated in the photo below:

Slash and spread to get the required extra width and length. You will need to make a side bust dart to account for the extra length on the side seam, so that it matches the back side seam.

Keep in mind that even if you're busty, you may not need an FBA since this is a knit and can also be worn below the breasts, as in the photo at the top of this post.