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Tuesday, October 15, 2013

One Garment, Two Stay Tapes

The topic of stay tape is perennially interesting, don't you think? It also seems to be one of the least-understood notions. Lately, I've been taking pictures of stay tape when I apply it, to get a better understanding of its many uses. (If this topic is entirely new to you, start with my post, "The Wild World of Stay Tape" as a primer.)

Today I'm making a pair of shorts, and it turned out to be the perfect example of two different applications--as well as two different types of stay tape. Note: I'm using fusible stay tape from Emma Seabrooke. It's a fantastic product that comes in many varieties.

Okay, example #1: the zipper opening.

Here you see wide black woven stay tape applied to the center back seam, where an invisible zipper will go.


I chose 1-1/4" wide stay tape because it's double the width of a 5/8" seam allowance. When folded in, the seam allowance will be very stable. Added bonus: I insert invisible zippers by pressing in the seam allowances first, and the stay tape gives me a guide so I don't have to measure them.

The zipper opening is very important to stabilize. Have you ever sewn one side of a zipper, only to find that the other side is shorter and won't match up when the zipper is closed? That's because stitching a zipper in place can stretch out the fabric, making it longer than the other side. This is VERY annoying when you're trying to match up waistline seams!

Stay tape in the zipper opening seam allowances completely takes care of this problem. It also makes your zipper area look crisper and nicer.

Okay, on to the next area: the pocket opening.

 
These shorts have a very curved pocket opening, which easily stretches out of shape because of the fabric's bias. A narrow tape will stabilize the opening, preventing it from stretching during construction and wear.

In this case, I used a 1/2" knit stay tape. When stabilizing curves, it's crucial to use a stay tape that will curve as well. Knit stay tape can be manipulated around a curved seam. You can also find bias woven stay tape for this purpose. When stabilizing a seam like this, apply the tape so that it is centered over the seamline.


So there you have it--two real-world examples of choosing and using stay tapes!

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28 comments:

  1. Dianne TalleyOctober 15, 2013 at 1:44 PM

    OK, you've convinced me. I am stabilizing every zipper from now on. I usually use interfacing, but the fusible stay tape looks easier.

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  2. HeddaOctober 15, 2013 at 1:59 PM

    Can I just ask about the fabric you´re using for the shorts? It looks a lot like something I´ve been on the lookout for for a while but nothing´s been quite right yet. Right texture, right colour and all. Is it available online?

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    Replies
    1. GertieOctober 15, 2013 at 2:42 PM

      It's a navy cotton pique from Mood Fabrics in New York. I would definitely try their website, or just give them a call!

      Delete
    2. heddaOctober 15, 2013 at 6:14 PM

      Thanks! A bit bothersome to call from Norway - expense and timezone-wise- but I´ll definitely give the website a try!

      Delete
  3. AnonymousOctober 15, 2013 at 2:05 PM

    Enjoyed your post! I've used Emma Seabrooke's stay tape for a long time --- since she started selling them :). They are great and wonderfully usable in all kinds of projects. (No affiliation except friendship with Emma)

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  4. JenniferOctober 15, 2013 at 2:36 PM

    I am always wondering about this and have used it a little. This post was great. Thank you.

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  5. AnonymousOctober 15, 2013 at 2:40 PM

    Oh boy, I definitely live in the wrong country. In Belgium it's difficult to just find stay tape, let alone two kinds of them :) As always, the interwebs will be my sewing buddy :)

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    Replies
    1. MommaBearOctober 18, 2013 at 5:20 PM

      Have you had a chance to visit Max Bloch fabrics? My little sis just took me there when they have their weekly sale and I went nuts. Then again, I live in Las Vegas so good fabric stores are pretty hard to come by!

      Delete
    2. MommaBearOctober 18, 2013 at 5:21 PM

      Max Bloch is in Brussels. Just for clarification. Heeehee

      Delete
  6. sew rachel!October 15, 2013 at 2:57 PM

    I love her knit stay tape! It makes hems on knit garments so much smoother!

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  7. emily.marieOctober 15, 2013 at 2:58 PM

    This stay tape looks awesome, thanks for the recommendation!

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  8. lisa g.October 15, 2013 at 3:54 PM

    i need to pick some of that up! i've been cutting my own from knit fusible, or regular fusible cut on the bias. i was shocked how much of a difference stabilizing a zipper opening made, which i started doing after watching sunni's zipper craftsy class. will never skip that step again!

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  9. Hello JodiOctober 15, 2013 at 4:50 PM

    I'm wondering: what is the benefit of using stay tape versus stay stitching?

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  10. JTOctober 15, 2013 at 5:10 PM

    I only see knit or double sided fusible stay tape on Emma Seabrooke's site. The stay tape you show for inserting a zipper is single sided woven, right? I would think using double sided wouldn't work.

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  11. No Regrets, Inc.October 15, 2013 at 7:23 PM

    Thanks! Always such useful info, Gertie.

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  12. SewjournerOctober 15, 2013 at 8:02 PM

    I was never quite sure if it was counter productive to use bias stay tape on a curved seam. Thanks for clearing that up!

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  13. CheriseOctober 16, 2013 at 4:13 AM

    I'm cheap and just cut my stay tape out of fusible interfacing: along grain if I need sturdier support, to the bias if I need some stretch :) I guess buying ready made would make up the cost in time spent.

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  14. Belinda B.October 16, 2013 at 5:48 AM

    I'm glad I read your post I've been cutting narrow strips of fusible interfacing to use for zipper seam lines and pockets but this product is a time saver that I will be purchasing.

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  15. UnknownOctober 16, 2013 at 7:34 AM

    thanks so much for sharing! i will be keeping these tips in my back pocket and stocking up on on tapes!

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  16. Anna DepewOctober 16, 2013 at 6:18 PM

    Great! Thanks so much for taking the time to put this together. Now I don't have to pull my hair out over the zipper I'm about to sew!

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  17. AnonymousOctober 16, 2013 at 7:24 PM

    The last two dresses I've made don't quite match up at the waist; I'll use stay tape (or at least some fusible interfacing) next time!

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  18. j3nnyclair3October 17, 2013 at 12:20 AM

    Thanks!!! What a helpful post.

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  19. PatFOctober 17, 2013 at 5:11 AM

    A really practical idea, thanks Gertie.
    I wonder what it's called in french? Probably I won't be able to find it here, though you can get fusible interfacing.

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  20. MertxeOctober 17, 2013 at 8:33 AM

    Hello! Gerthie, if you have a minute (I guess you don't, with all the work for the new book, but anyways, let me ask...) I've been reading about stay tape, very interesting, I do need to apply it more often, I can see how important is to stabilise, specially on bias. I've seen in the other article you mention the book Professional sewing techniques for designers. The question is, do you recomend it? expensive as it is? You could dedicate us a post on sewing books, by the way, I love them, but I don't want to read any thing... Thanks, love.

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  21. Samantha KOctober 17, 2013 at 1:11 PM

    I haven't really worked with stay tape, but I love how it looks on your zipper. Do you have any recommendations on which brands you like vs which ones aren't as great?

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  22. Ciruela13October 17, 2013 at 7:47 PM

    unrelated to this post, but i swear you recommended a sweater de-fuzzer a while back. i've searched your archives and can't find it. can you help a pill-y girl out and remind me what product it is?

    thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  23. AnonymousOctober 21, 2013 at 9:51 PM

    I've never used or seen stay tape before and after reading this I found some in my sewing cabinet, inherited from my grandma. She left me so many great treasures; thanks Gertie for opening my eyes to this!

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  24. SandyOctober 28, 2013 at 6:03 PM

    Have never done stay tape. I need to know more about it. Is there a best brand?

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Thanks for your comments; I read each and every one! xo Gertie