Stabilizing a V-Neck with Twill Tape

I've been moving right along on my version of Butterick 5814. One thing that's very important in a design like this is to stabilize the neckline. V-necklines are notorious for gaping. That's because the fabric is usually cut directly along the bias--the stretchiest part of the fabric. If it's not stabilized, the v-neck will continue to stretch over time. (Note: sometimes a design will have you cut the bodice piece so the v-neck is placed along the straight grain of the fabric, but it's more common that you'll see the straight grain at center front, which places the v-neck on the bias.)

You'll want to stabilize your neckline as soon as possible after cutting.

First, mark the neckline seamline with chalk (in other words, mark 5/8" in from the cut edge of the fabric). Here, I'm working on the right front bodice piece.

Next, cut a piece of 1/4" wide twill tape. Cut it 1/4" shorter than the length of the line you just marked.

Pin the twill tape at either end of your chalk line, just inside the seam allowance. (So the edge of your twill tape will butt up against your chalk line.) Because the twill tape is shorter than the chalk line, it will buckle up.

 Next, distribute the ease of the fabric into the twill tape by pinning all along it.

 Hand baste along the lower edge of the twill tape to keep it in place.

Repeat this process on the bodice left front, and both bodice back pieces. Then sew as usual! Though it looks a little ripply now, when the seam allowance is turned to the inside, the ripples will not show on your bodice. Do not trim down your twill tape when trimming seam allowances.

I did the same thing on the top of my raglan sleeves.

Now you have a neckline that won't stretch or gape!

P.S. I'll be taking the rest of the week off blogging in honor of Thanksgiving. I hope you all have a great holiday and weekend!