I've become quite obsessed with this seam finish lately! I had some garments to send in for a magazine article and was agonizing over the finish to use--even though I really don't think the inside of the garments will show. I was suddenly reminded of the
Daily Dress I featured with turned and stitched seam allowances and felt inspired. This method creates a really beautiful touch to a garment. I've been using it on taffeta and shantung lately and have found that it works especially well with these crisp silks.
Here's how I do it. First, stitch your seam as usual.
Press the seam flat to set the stitches.
Press the seam open.
Take the piece back to the sewing machine. Isolate one seam allowance, and turn it wrong side up. It looks like this going into the machine:
Here's the other side:
Turn the edge of the seam allowance up toward you, about 1/8" to 1/4" max.
Stitch along the fold.
Now one seam allowance is finished.
Repeat with the other seam allowance. Voila! Lovely finished seams.
If you need to press your seams open again, it's a good idea to do it on a seam roll, so that you can press just the seamline, rather than the allowances as well. This will help you avoid making an indentation on the right side of the fabric.
Any other fans of this seam finish?
What about when is not on a straight, what about the curve of the hips on a pencil skirt or a princess seam, wouldnt it get a bit fiddly?
ReplyDeleteI have found you can't do it on those kinds Boo Boo, which is why sometimes just encasing with a bias tape is better as you can use around curves.
ReplyDeleteI like this finish (I learned it as "clean-finish") but often I'll do it before sewing the seam, because then there are less layers to fuss with.
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing. I love to finish my seams with flat fell seams, but it does not work for every garment (I use them for princess seams if it's not a problem to have a stitch line showing). I'll try to use this one on my next projects.
ReplyDeleteLovely finish, one that I don't ever use. I will have to give it a try. I would think an edge stitching foot could be invaluable here.
ReplyDeleteI like the finished edge done with a serger. I use my 4 thread setting, it cleans up the edges, doesn't add bulk, is great around curves and adds a reinforcement stitch. I worked really well on the lightweight cottons I used for adding pieces to my summer wardrobe.
ReplyDeleteI have been using this finish with cotton voile for a slip and a 1940's blouse. It looks lovely when you hold the finished garment up to the light!
ReplyDeleteI just made a silk broadcloth sleeveless blouse and used this finish for my seams. It really worked with the fabric and I'll definitely be using it again.
ReplyDeleteI learned it as the "tailor's edge finish." I prefer French seams or a Hong Kong finish.
ReplyDeleteBunny:
Yes, I've only used a regular foot, but I'd imagine that an edgestitch foot would make it easier.
This looks good, but on straight seams I absolutely prefer french seams/HK seams. :-)
ReplyDeleteThe one I loved to do was when I was using a double layer of poplin (one broderie anglaise, one plan as a lining). I sewed both layers right sides together (except the hem), turned it, and then did a plain seam when constructing the skirt. Instant lining and finished seams.
ReplyDeleteHi Gertie,
ReplyDeleteI'm intrigued by the step to "Press the seam flat to set the stitches." I have heard of this before, and I have to admit, I've never done it myself. What exactly does it mean to "set the stitches?" Does it make a difference? (I suppose that I really should try it out myself to see!)
Thanks,
Natalie
The french seam works for a pair of jeans too, doesn't it? I don't do fancy stitches generally speaking, it's just the fake serger stitch on my sewing machine, trim and go!
ReplyDeleteI've become reliant on my sewing machine's overlock stitch but I definitely need to try this to expand my seam finishing horizons!
ReplyDeletevegetablog - in my experience, setting the stitches helps the seam lay very flat and crisp which makes it easier to finish and makes the garment fall just the way you want it to. but definitely try it for yourself and you'll notice the difference!
This seam finish feels so vintage to me!
ReplyDelete@MB: the seam finish used on jeans is called the "flat-felled" finish. Denim is generally too bulky for a french seam. Flat-felled seams are sewn right sides together, one seam allowance trimmed to about 1/4", and the other seam allowance wrapped around the narrow one and top-stitched into the garment.
I use a similar technique to finish facings sometimes, although I zigzag the edges first and then turn the zigzag stitches under and topstitch it. I find that having the zigzag stitches there gives me more control over the fabric so it doesn't torque when I'm turning it under, which I always have problems with.
ReplyDeleteNewbie Q - doesn't that add a lot of bulk to the seam?
ReplyDeleteI've actually got a current Simplicity pattern that has you do this with the neck facing. Neither the convex or concave curves are a problem. (The pattern instructs you to stitch all the way around the assembled facing pieces along the fold line first, which does help with the curves.) In my opinion it doesn't create a lot of bulk, but I can see how it might with a heavy fabric.
ReplyDeletehi Gertie, thanks for the tutorial. i'm always looking for great & creative ways to finish seams. :)
ReplyDeleteI used this when I first started sewing, as it's what the basic books and patterns say to do, but I always thought it was a "basic" finish, not high end. I found it hard with my sewing machine as the fabric kept getting bunched into the hole. I might be able to do it with my newer machine that has changeable plates.
ReplyDeleteMy big issue right now is finishing some really curved princess seams on a really light woven fabric.
Thanks for the tutorial. I have some white cotton dottedswiss that I'm going to use for a summer blouse and I will definitely use this seam finish!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the tutorial. I have some white cotton dottedswiss that I'm going to use for a summer blouse and I will definitely use this seam finish!
ReplyDeleteI love this finish for straight seams on linings especially. To me it's a bit sturdier and cleaner than serging (just from the standpoint there are no threads you can snag easily!). Although as others have pointed out, it's pretty impossible to do on curved seams--the only downside!
ReplyDeleteVery cool, Gertie! I just posted this very same technique on my learn how to sew blog about 2 weeks ago. It really is a great seam finish, and easy to do. I taught straight and zig-zag options.
ReplyDeleteI really like this finish, it looks very professional, but what about thickness? For instance, on the side seam of a pencil skirt, would it add bulk?
ReplyDeleteI like this seam finish. When I took a sewing class, the teacher called this "tailored edge." I recently used this to finish seams on a lightweight cotton tunic; I wouldn't use it on a fabric that easily frays or a thick fabric.
ReplyDeleteI've just been doing this on a dress I'm making, and the problem I ran into was that I ran out of thread! I ended up just pinking the skirt seams, which made me sad, because the bodice seams that are finished this way look so nice. I pinked the seams before I turned them under, and I did turn under the edge of a curved facing, but didn't have any curved seams, which would be quite a different story. Glad to see it here!
ReplyDeleteWonderful! Thank you for showing me how to do this.
ReplyDeleteMy favorite seam finish! Though I usually turn and stitch before sewing the seams together. Also many of my vintage dresses use this finish.
ReplyDeleteOoh yes. I like this seam finish. I used to do it all the time when I had only a little, clunky old sewing machine that only did straight stitch, no zigzag. You've reminded me I should give it a go again -- thanks!
ReplyDeleteso simple! thank you, Gertie!
ReplyDeleteI used to do it but cut it out because get this: I used to press the SA under before doing the finish stitching!! To be fair, that's how I was taught. It drove me crazy. I like how you are just flipping it before the needle. Doh!!
ReplyDeleteYou are so right about this being a great finish for taffeta and firm silks like dupioni. When using those fabrics I always use this seam and it does make a lovely finish!
ReplyDeleteLike Monica Anne said, this is known as a "clean finish." However I have a book that calls it a "Straight-stitch finish". The book follows the same method you used, but the "clean finish" method is much easier: Just press 1/4" to the wrong side and edgestitch it, and then sew the seam. That's how they do it in fashion school ;)
ReplyDeleteI'd never used this before, but you inspired me to use it yesterday on a dress. I used it on the back skirt seam, below an invisible zipper - the side seams are French seams and it's a nice complement to those, as I was able to finish the allowances either side of the zipper too (it's also perfectly symmetrical!) Thanks!
ReplyDeleteI had always used this method until I discovered the French seam. Both make a huge difference.
ReplyDeleteI really like the look of that finish, really neat and much prettier than serging (although I do love my serger!) I'm going to try this with my next sewing project, I'll see if it's a method that'll stick :)
ReplyDeleteThis was the standard finish in the days before there were zig-zag machines (high end couture meant hand-overcasting, but for everyday wear this was quicker. I was always told not to do it before you sewed the seam lest in doing it you stretch the piece slightly out of shape, which would affect the seam.
ReplyDeletesince i dont have serger it's going to be so useful!
ReplyDeletei'm learning lot from ur blog.
Thank u!!
I tried this one on a thin cotton wrap skirt and I had troubles handling the curves of the hips. I got a lot of puckers. Should those be notched or bias taped?
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