In-Progress Net Corselet

Why is it that the best inspiration always comes when you don't have time to work with it? I need to finish the garments for my book, so of course I'm totally drawn to another project. I'm giving myself a bit of time to work on it at night just for my own sanity and satisfaction.

I've been doing a lot of research into 50s bathing suits recently because many of them have fascinating inner structures. I've been especially taken by the designs of Rose Marie Reid, who believed that swimwear should be as elegant as evening gowns--and provide the same internal support.

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I'm especially in love with her "Hourglass" collection, which came in lovely pastels. This inspiration all sort of converged around the time when I'm making a little outfit for our annual summer day trip to Coney Island, which is planned for the day of the Mermaid Parade this weekend. What better to wear than something inspired by these lovely "jewels of the sea"? (Note to self: you probably won't finish the outfit in time. It's cool. Just chill out, okay?)

It will need an inner foundation, and I've been dying to try a corselet made from cotton bobbinet (blogged here). It just so happened that my friend Brenda, who used to work at a Barbara Matera, a prestigious Broadway costume shop, wrote me an e-mail telling me more about this kind of construction. In Brenda's words:

I know of a technique where you later two pieces of bobbinet perpendicular grain (lay one, turn the next layer 90 degrees and lay that on top) and machine quilt them together at 1/4 inch grids.  THEN you cut the corselet out and make it.  It's light as a feather, strong, and takes an eternity to make.  They used to do that at Barbara Matera.  They did all kinds of crazy beyond couture things there- you wouldn't believe the ballet costumes.  The cotton corselets were great in sheer beaded gowns.  They would dye the bobbinet to match the actor and then the corselet helped not only hold the shape of the gown and actress, but it usually eliminated the need for a bra or slip.  

Amazing, huh? I became entranced with this idea and tried out the quilting myself.

It's weirdly soothing to do, but I couldn't stop thinking about toilet paper commercials as I was doing it. You know, the whole "two-ply quilted" business?

Anyway, here's the front bodice. It really is amazingly sturdy.

I'm super excited to put the boning in tomorrow night. More to come!