The Net Corselet

 

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Many vintage dresses have built-in corselets, especially those of Dior's New Look. These were complicated inner structures, with boning, a grosgrain waist stay, and bust enhancers. I often think they're almost as beautiful as the outer dress; is that crazy? However, it's hard to find good pictures of the insides of these dresses. Ah, wouldn't it be nice to own a New Look Dior to be able to inspect it at will?

All the corselets that I've seen pictured in vintage dresses were made of cotton net, which I find fascinating. I've also seen this called bobbinette. As Claire Shaeffer writes in Couture Sewing Techniques:  

Traditionally, the corselette was made of two layers of cotton tulle; in more recent years, fabrics such as silk, linen, and power net (a girdle fabric with spandex) are used more frequently. The cotton tulle, sometimes called English net or bobbinet, is lightweight, soft, cool to wear, and does not ravel; it is also expensive and difficult to find.

Shaeffer recommends this online source for cotton net, and it is indeed expensive (though 72" wide, so you wouldn't need much). I believe I may have seen cotton nets at B&J; I'll need to go check that out.

{source: Couture Sewing Techniques, revised and updated ed., click to enlarge}

I've made a corselet out of cotton batiste and liked the results, but I'm interested to sew one with the cotton net method for a true vintage vibe. Have any of you tried this?

Update: To answer a reader question, a corselet isn't necessarily meant to be your only support. If you're large busted, you'll need to still wear a bra. As Susan Khalje said when I took a class with her, the corselet acts on the dress, while a bra acts on the body. That said, I'm small busted and can get away with just a corselet. Also, liking the sew-along idea! I'll have to ponder that.