The Style Dictionary: Gathers, Ruching, and Shirring

Ooh, here's a good question that came from a commenter. Have you ever noticed how the terms gathering, ruching, and shirring are often used interchangeably? Well, it's probably because there's a lot of overlap between these three methods. I'm going to talk about what I understand these techniques to be, but feel free to jump in with your own opinions in the comments, as always!

Gathering

This term refers to a length of fabric being drawn up into gathers and sewn into a shorter length of fabric. The best example of gathering in vintage style is a dirndl skirt, which is a rectangular pattern piece that is drawn up to fit into a smaller piece, like a waistband or bodice.

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I think of gathering as generally being on one side of a piece of fabric, and then releasing into fullness on the other side. Neckline gathers are another example.

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Gathers are made by using a long basting stitch and then drawing up the bobbin thread, or (my favorite method) using a wide zigzag over dental floss or a thin strand of string and then pulling the floss or string tight.

Ruching

Ruching is a gathered overlay. The fabric is gathered on two parallel sides and stitched to an underlay. It's often done in sheers, like chiffon.

Here's a bodice that has a ruched chiffon overlay.

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 This dress is ruched in the bust only, creating a shelf effect.

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This dress pattern has vertical ruching on the bust, horizontal ruching on the waist, and a gathered skirt. Oh my!

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Ruching is made by creating two or more parallel lines of gathering.

Shirring

Shirring is a gathering technique done with elastic thread, which creates a stretchy garment. Elastic thread is used in the bobbin, causing the fabric to gather up when stitched. Shirring is very common on the side panels on 50s swimsuits, rompers and sundresses a la Alfred Shaheen.

I love the form-fitting effect shirring has on this Shaheen romper.

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Isn't it awesome? One of my goals this summer is to finally try shirring to make a hot Shaheen-style bombshell dress.

There you have it: gathering, ruching, and shirring as I understand them. Please share your own definitions!