Yesterday I got my coat underlinings all cut out (muslin for my coat bodice, silk organza for the sleeves and skirt). So today I could jump right into fabric cutting. Here's my underlining laid out on my wool.
I think one of my biggest lightbulb moments so far was finally understanding the importance of the seamline (as opposed to seam allowance) in couture sewing. The seamline is all that matters, and the seam allowance doesn't actually need to be even! You start with a muslin on which you mark the seam line with wax tracing paper, and then cut around the piece, giving yourself an approximate 1" seam allowance. When you baste the seams together, you match the seamlines, making sure that they're pinned precisely on each side.
The process is repeated when you transfer your markings to your underlinings. Check out this piece, for instance. The waistline got adjusted during my fitting, but there's no need to fuss around with the seam allowance. See how there's less of a seam allowance on the left than the right? Look at the purple arrows.
I'm trying to make a point of watching others work on their projects as well. Three ladies are making strapless dresses, which I've been following eagerly. Here's a pic from a demo of making boning channels in an inner corselette.
More to come, friends.
I was lucky enough to spend a week last year with Susan in Baltimore. Isn't it the best?
ReplyDeleteBasting by machine? I can see that eyebrow going up from here in Philadelphia. Enjoy soaking up the couture knowledge. Wish I were there again.
Barbara
batkins53@gmail.com
I'm loving reading about this. I desperately want to go on Camp Couture now!
ReplyDeleteIsn't that interesting - I am noticing that my under-bust dart came out much like yours.
ReplyDeleteIt is not symmetrical. The inner leg is a little more curved than the outer leg.
Hmmm, I just love seeing the results after a fitting and seeing how things look in the flat.
haha "there's no machine basting at camp couture" that totally made me smile! sounds like my kind of fun.
ReplyDeleteAllison
Hi Gertie,
ReplyDeleteLooks like your having a great time at camp, and you have another camper blogging about the fun. http://alittlesewing.blogspot.com/
Reading all the blogs have made by ride into work pass so quickly.
Happy Camping!
Having grown up sewing in Europe using both the continental patterns (without seam allowance) as well as the British/American pattern (with seam allowance, I have never understood that so much fuss is made in blogs about patterns which do not include allowances. I've always cut more than the 5/8" inch given on patterns as that gives you no allowance to fit. And surely the stitching line is the most important, as that is what you want to match. Wether the seam allowances are even or not is totally immaterial.
ReplyDeleteLove your blog and wish I could take the camp couture, but I now live in the Philippines so it is just a little too far!
I can imagine sewing machines being banned from Camp Couture. Even the really really cute antique portable Singer machines.
ReplyDeleteIt must be an incredible experience getting all this knowledge and being surounded with people who share your passions.
I don't need Camp Couture, but when I do needle tables of cutting space I head over to Vogue Fabrics in Evanston and I can rent a room with what I need for $5 a day. $5 a day! Cheaper than a couture weekend...
ReplyDeleteI know that eyebrow raise!!! I hand basted everything on my Chanel-style jacket. I'm so glad you're enjoying yourself. You'll be amazed at the skills you learn and how much you absorb in one of Susan's classes.
ReplyDeleteI am laughing about the hand basting / machine basting. It reminds me of my Sit & Sew session with Susan (and Kenneth) last year. I worked on a strapless dress with accompanying bolero jacket made of midnight navy guipure lace and a soft pale pink silk charmeuse under neath. By the time Susan (and Kenneth) were done with me, I was ready to hand baste everything in sight. You learn so much from them and the other ladies who attend. Enjoy!
ReplyDeleteTotally agree about the importance of following the stitching line, and hand-basting. It seems like a bother, but I've found that these these steps actually make sewing the final stitches, a lot easier and headache-free.
ReplyDeleteOh - I'm green with envy! I want to go too - I don't want to work on my BA thesis at ALL!!!
ReplyDeleteI guess that's why I've made it my task to go thru' all of your posts on your WONDERFUL blog as fast as possible!!
I was taught to sew by my aunt, an amazing seamstress who ran a sewing room for many years. I learned to embroider, and then to make doll clothes entirely by hand with the tiniest stitches before I was ever allowed to touch a machine. I have seen her make beautiful custom garments entirely by hand, true to her belief that a machine is a convenience, not a necessity.
ReplyDeleteSo happy that you are having a wonderful experience!
xo, A.
I'm not sure I understand: how do I know where the stitching line is without the seam allowance to follow? I've only ever known to cut along my seam allowance and then knowing the width of that allowance to use it as a guide as I sew. Even if I were hand basting wouldn't I need to be basting through the pattern layer to know where the line is?
ReplyDeleteshelleyandmike, you have to first mark the seam line on your pattern in pencil. You just measure in 5/8". When you make your muslin, you transfer the seam line only to the muslin with tracing paper, on both sides. After fitting with your muslin, you cut out your underlining and transfer seam lines to it. Then you place the underlining on the fashion fabric and baste them together at the seam line. So, at every step, you're marking the seam line.
ReplyDeleteI'm sure that sounds kind of crazy and obsessive, but it seems natural once you've done it.
My new goal: take this class when I'm finally planning a wedding and making my wedding gown. I'm not even close to that yet, but I hope to be soon, and I want something no one else has that fits me perfectly. :)
ReplyDeleteCamp Couture sounds amazing! Oh to be with the great Susan Khalje quietly handbasting! Seeing those boning channels really makes me wish I could have taken her class before making the wedding dress I'm currently working on! One day!
ReplyDeleteThis gorgeous dress!
ReplyDeletelove your blog !!!!!
I'm Following
kisses from Brazil
http://munamo.blogspot.com/
Gertie, I sent you an email but I am not sure if that is a valid email address that I came across. Would you be able to email me @ sewingessence@gmail.com ? I have a couple quick things to run by you.
ReplyDeleteThanks!
Emily
no machine basting....in one sense it seems so laborious, but hand basting is so accurate. what a great opportunity to learn from the master/mistress of couture!
ReplyDeleteGertie, You mention wax tracing paper. where did you get that? I love the old wax style and can not find a source for it. I sometimes find it in the estate sales of elderly seamstresses who have passed.
ReplyDeleteGertie, I'm puzzled. Is there a misspeak in paragraph #3? "you start with a muslin on which you've marked the seam allowance, and then cut out approximately 1" for a seam allowance" (or words to that effect)? Did you mean to say you mark the seamline on the muslin?
ReplyDeleteAnd if you get to in the future, why hand basting over machine basting? What is the advantage? Thanks and keep having fun for all of us!
I can't imagine basting everything by hand. Wow! You are so fortunate to be attending this camp.
ReplyDeleteI commented earlier about the importance of the stitching line on patterns. I haven't used a "big 4" pattern for quite a while now as I live in the Philippines and they are not available here. I just checked one I ordered a while back by mail and haven't yet (yes, I have a lot of UFOs too...) and realized they don't even show stitching lines anymore. Many years ago, when I was still sewing in Europe they were marked on the pattern. I wonder why they stopped doing this? Saving ink? I would transfer the markings using carbon paper and a dress makers wheel, or if it was a very important piece in thicker fabric , I would use tailor tacks. Both methods end up tearing the pattern though, so if I needed to reuse it, I would often cut off the seam allowances altogether as in my opinion they are totally useless on the pattern. It's really only in factories where they have any relevance as nothing is ever basted (neither by machine let alone by hand) and the sewers need to align the cut edges in order to know where to sew.
ReplyDeleteI'm so confused! First, what is the advantage of hand basting? Second, what is the benefit of transfering all the seam line onto your fabrics? Is the result truly worth the extra time?
ReplyDeleteI'm curious if you can say more about how you go about matching the seamlines. I've started sewing corsets recently, and given that fit is so important with corsets, matching the seamlines exactly is definitely the way to go, rather than trying to get that level of exactitude with seam allowances. But I find matching up the seamlines to be really tedious, and the best I've been able to figure out is putting pins through the line of one piece and then through the next piece. Is there an easier way?
ReplyDeleteSweet, I've been sewing couture my whole life without knowing it! Seriously, I hate seam allowances. They are useless because they don't show you exactly where to sew! I like following the line with my needle, thank you very much.
ReplyDeleteI'm also looking for waxed tracing paper. Would you please share your source?
ReplyDelete