Crepe Sew-Along #2: Transitioning Between Two Different Bodice Sizes

A lot of you have mentioned being one size in the bust and another at the waist. Never fear, my pretties! When you can sew, this is no big whoop. Since our patterns have multiple sizes on them, we can pick and choose between sizes, using several different ones in the same garment. I know it can get a little confusing when there are darts involved, so let me show you how to transition from one size to another in the bodice.

Here's your bodice pattern piece.

Before you do anything, close up the side dart. (Don't worry about the waist dart, since we're not going to be touching it.) See how you now have a smooth line down the side of your bodice?

Next, put your ruler down, the top of it aligned with your desired size at the underarm (blue arrow). Pivot the other end of the rule to the size you want to transition to at the bottom of the bodice (purple arrow). Draw a new line along the ruler's edge. This is your new side seam.

You'll now have to "true" your dart lines. This just means readjusting them to make them work with any new pattern changes. The easiest way to do this is to take a serrated tracing wheel, and trace over the folded dart.

When you unfold your dart, look for the little perforations underneath the fold. This is your new dart line. Outline it with the same color you re-drew your side seam line in. Note: this only changes the outer line of the dart, where it sticks out a bit when open. (Look back at the first pic on this post—see the little wedge that sticks out past the seamline on the outer edge of the dart?) Trueing is a small, but crucial step in getting your pieces to line up properly when the dart is sewn shut. Otherwise, your edge will look all wonky. You can also just cut along your new seam line with the dart closed to get your new line, but I wanted to show you the proper patternmaking way.

Repeat the process on the back bodice. However, there's no bust dart to worry about there. Just draw your line between the two sizes.

Now, you may have some questions here. Like: Gertie, are you wearing pink pajamas with white polka dots in these pictures? Why, yes. Yes, I am. (They also have ice cream sundaes on them.)

You also may wish to know how to handle the waist dart. Which size should you trace it at? My best answer to this is to trace the bottom of the dart at your waist size, transitioning up to your bust size at the top of the dart. Make sense?

How's everyone doing with the muslins? I'll outline the rest of the muslin construction for you this weekend. I tried mine on briefly and I will definitely be doing some bust adjustments. It seems to run even bigger than other Colette Patterns in the bust, so be forewarned. More to come on my pattern alterations as well!