Our Lady Grey sew-along has only whetted my appetite for more tailoring. In fact, it's sent me on a frenzy of tailoring book and accoutrement purchasing. And the acquisition I'm most excited about is the jacket pattern above from Claire Shaeffer's Custom Couture Collection for Vogue Patterns. I'd read that these patterns are worth the price for the instructions alone, and goodness, that's no lie. The pattern has two versions: A, which is the couture tailoring method and B, which uses quicker techniques like fusibles and a bagged lining. Version A incorporates hair canvas and silk organza underlining, taped roll lines and lapel edges, and handworked buttonholes. (Be still my heart!) The instructions look clear and painstaking, with "couture tips" sprinkled throughout, like how to "spank the corner briskly with the clapper" (I couldn't make that up if I tried, readers). I feel like I've hit the jackpot for home tailoring enthusiasts!
I think what makes tailoring so daunting and difficult for home sewists is that one has to take textbook techniques and figure out how to apply them to commercial patterns. For me, that's involved a lot of guesswork—as well as a lot of much-appreciated help from more experienced seamstresses. What makes these Custom Couture patterns so appealing is that they seem to give you the explicit knowledge needed to apply tailoring to a specific pattern. If only they would do a coat pattern one of these days! (Vogue? Claire? Pretty please?)
Anyway, this pattern is a little conservative for my tastes, but I love the nipped waist and cool pocket details (pictured above). I think with a little more flare at the hips, it could almost be New Look-esque. I have a lovely cherry-colored herringbone wool that would be perfect, especially with some of the fabulous covered buttons Casey just did a tutorial on.
Have any of you tried these patterns? What do you think? Have I created any fellow tailoring monsters? I hope so!
I haven't made any of the patterns, but I have read her Couture Sewing book from cover to cover; and if I had to choose only one sewing book to own, that would be it. I also recently bought & watched her new DVD and it is wonderful as well. I agree, most of her patterns are very conservative but sometimes I think they might be worth making up just to learn and practice all the great techniques.
ReplyDeleteI JUST got that pattern in the mail yesterday! and knowing it was coming was making me read all your Lady Grey posts all the more avidly. I agree it is on the conservative side - especially in that grey - but I guess when you are putting all that work in, it is comforting to think your jacket will not go out of style in a month or two. I think a funky colour or pattern would make it a lot less conservative.
ReplyDeleteAnyway, G, with all your draping and designing skills, surely you could come up with some variation?
As for me I am going to go ahead and try it out... when I finish the UFOs I have hanging over me...
I have most of her books and I've bought some of the pants patterns for her couture techniques, which are clear and wonderful. I have not bought any of her couture jackets, because they aren't really my taste.
ReplyDeleteFrom what I've seen of the pattern instructions they are more detailed than the her book because they are specific to a particular garment. A coat is no different from a jacket just larger.
I think the jacket is very classic, as seems to be most of C.S.'s designs. Too bad several of the other designs (with a bit more flair) are out of print.
ReplyDeleteI eye Claire Schaeffer's patterns every time Vogue goes on sale at the fabric store... I think I might have to buy that pattern, if nothing else just because the instructions would be really helpful to figure out how to tailor a 1950s suit pattern I want to make next year. Even though I'm sure I could muddle it out, tailoring is so new to me, and I'd rather have someone (in this case, the instructions for this Vogue jacket ;) directing me a bit!
ReplyDeleteI think with a bit of tweaking, this jacket would look amazing in a brighter color!
Thanks for the link too! ;)
♥ Casey | blog
I'm currently working on this jacket. I'm a tailoring feign and I'm loving every moment of the process! I'm glad that this pattern is "conservative". It's almost impossible to find a classic cut blazer pattern. This pattern has so much potential. You can just change the fabric and the possibilities are endless! Plus the instructions are invaluable!
ReplyDeleteOh that jacket detail is lovely! Must look up those patterns and embrace the geekhood...
ReplyDeleteI'm sure that jacket in a nice colour and with different buttons wouldn't look half as staid. I can feel a pattern purchase coming on...
That jacket is super classy. The nice thing about understated garments is you can accessorize the heck out of them and wear them with anything.
ReplyDeleteI almost bought that one the other day, but decided to hold off, since I have no fabric/time to make one yet. I agree with you about adding a bit more flare to the hips also. It's a beautiful pattern!
ReplyDeleteI've been eyeing up this pattern for a long time... I want to do this one so badly I can't see straight! I'm extremely novice at tailoring, but once I've got a little more experience under my belt (probably using your excellent tutorials and tips!) I'm going to give it a shot. I'm so in love with this!
ReplyDeleteI bought this pattern with the same idea in mind. I love the classic look and those lovely pleats. It really is just a beautiful jacket. And yes, the directions are stunning. Love them! I do agree that most of her patterns are a little on the conservative side, however, I think that's the beauty of them. They would be gorgeous with anything and you can alter them to fit your tastes. She has great pants patterns too.
ReplyDeleteGertie: I bought this pattern a couple of months ago - it's so where I'm at. And now that we've done this sew along, I'll have much more info with which to approach it.
ReplyDeleteVery weirdly, I've been meaning to email you to ask you to do another sew along in the spring (YES, I am tremendously greedy) and to make the Claire Shaeffer jacket you've used as your photo, the item we sew.
Since you don't love its conservatism, maybe this isn't on the table? :-)
Anyway, think about it because I SO want to sew a tailored suit jacket next and I need your mojo.
I haven't made any of these patterns, but I think I have the coat pattern you're looking for in my pattern collection. Vogue 7634. Ladies drop waist flare panel coat. Unfortunately discontinued. Here's a very small picture.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.librarything.com/work/9378606
It's gorgeous, and I've had it for years but have been too intimidated to ever try it.
But the jacket is lovely, and as everybody has said, I'm sure you'll do a fantastic job with it.
Betty:
ReplyDeleteThank you, I was going to ask about the DVD. http://www.amazon.com/Couture-Techniques-Workshop-Basics-Shaeffer/dp/B003LWWD0O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1287584332&sr=8-1
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I like Schaeffer's book, but I've always seen it as a supplement for fairly accomplished sewers, not a how to manual. I believe a new edition is coming out; wonder if there will be any major changes.
I tend to like classic styles, but that jacket would be too conservative for me. I would consider one of her Chanel-style patterns, if I could find one that isn't too boxy.
Has anyone looked at the DVDs with the Chanel suits?
I found this pattern completley by happenstance at my local Joann's. http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8621-products-10678.php?page_id=262
ReplyDeleteI was looking for a different pattern at the time and someone had this one strewn out on the counter. I grabbed it immediatley!
I'm now soo happy seeing as it's a Claire Shaeffer pattern since I didn't know she has such great tailored instructions. I'm planning on making this little jacket next to make all of these tailoring concepts "stick" in my head.
How nerdy am I that I was having fun catch-stitching while watching breakfast at Tiffany's?!
Liz, I also have Vogue 8621 and will make it someday ... love that funky neckline. The instructions are indeed wonderful, and having Gertie's vlogs really brings it all to life. I just need more time to sew!
ReplyDeleteI doubt that anyone, even you, will consider this jacket conservative once made up in a cherry-colored herringbone wool. It will be spectacular. And, you are correct, this pattern would be worth it, if only for the instructions. Since my hands don't like a lot of hand work any longer, the directions on using fusibles would be great.
ReplyDeleteI made two, one a wearable muslin and the other one in hot pink double knit and though I didn't do the couture one, I absolutely loved the instructions and taken step by step, slowly, I did learn how to make a jacket. It's a good school for the self-learning. 10 years later, I still were them. http://www.carmencitab.com/2010/05/may-5th-claire-sheaffer-and-burda.html
ReplyDeleteGertie: I had no idea what tailoring even was before the Lady Grey!!
ReplyDeleteWell, now I am scheming to make tailored coats for my boyfriend and I as soon as my fabric shows up, so expect some questions from me, as I plan on tackling this tailoring business headon. You have the most clear instructions on tailoring I have found (aside from my 1970's sewing A to Z sewing book).
First question:
Would you interface all the front and back pieces for a mens peacoat? Or would you just reinforce the upper back part, like you did for the lady grey?
Thanks!!!!
I've been obsessed with learning more couture and tailoring techniques! Any other books or editorials you'd suggest?
ReplyDeleteClaire Shaeffer did do a coat pattern ... several years ago and I think you would like it. I am traveling at the moment, but will forward you information. If I recall correctly it had a Peter Pan collar and came with a dress pattern.
ReplyDeleteI made a CS jacket a few years ago and I've made one of her pants patterns several times. I used the couture instructions. They are really excellent - so detailed that you can safely let go of the way you might have chosen to make it, and just follow them.
ReplyDeleteThere was a rather magnificient Claire Shaeffer coat pattern produced about seven years ago. This one was a long coat with a fitted bodice and a semi-full skirt. It had a very vintage look that would be absolutely gorgeous made up in velvet.
ReplyDeleteAnnamarie
flyskim, I remember that coat pattern now! I think I actually owned it years ago when my skillz were not up to the challenge and I finally gave it away. What was I thinking?!
ReplyDeleteK.Line, you're funny. I'm doing a beginner sew along next, but I'll think about a jacket sew-along in the future. I need to recover from Lady Grey first! :)
Carmencita, love your hot pink version!
Reneebies, I would probably interface the front and back all the way to the bottom. Good luck!
Designers Lounge, I'm also reading "Classic Tailoring Techniques: a Construction Guide for Women's Wear" and loving it. It's about $40 on Amazon right now.
Gertie, you changed your id photo - very cute.
ReplyDeleteReading, watching and following your Lady Grey work the sewing geek in me has blossomed, thanks for the inspiration. I very much look forward to your future blogs, and secretly (well, not now) wish you never to stop.
I'm loving your tailoring posts even though I'm not doing the sew-along.. it's all so very inspiring! I have the couture sewing book and love all of the thoughtful details in couture sewing. And I love the idea of doing two sets of instructions, one for standard sewing and one for more advanced construction. There is definitely a tailoring project in my future!
ReplyDeleteGertie! Again, how apropos! After taking PR's hand couture sewing class by Susan Khalje - I bought this book and read it cover to cover. Fantastic post - and so true.
ReplyDeleteI'm afraid you may have created at least one monster here... My Lady Grey, which I altered and re-worked so much it's some whole other sort of Lady, is not going to fit me. I messed up something somewhere. But is that stopping me? No way. I can't stop tending to each little detail as if it were going to be my new favorite coat/jacket.
ReplyDeleteAnd I'm falling asleep at night dreaming of my next (what will be my 2nd) tailoring project.
Oh, also, I think that jacket is gorgeous. It's got the kind of perfect bones that can carry anything you add to it.
ReplyDeleteI've been lusting after the Claire Shaeffer jacket with the cutout at the neck -- but I'm losing weight and don't want to waste time and material on such a worthy project if I am not sure how it will fit. It will be fun to follow your progress on those pleats. Love your blog by the way. Thank you for doing it -- it's a great service. Margaret
ReplyDeleteI have that jacket pattern and have been waiting to try it out! Unfortunately I have a somewhat long sewing list before I get to it, including a tailored jacket with a shawl collar, and a tailored double-breasted coat with a standard two-point collar. I've been a tailoring junkie for a long time!
ReplyDeleteClaire also has a couple of other couture jacket patterns for Vogue, but unfortunately they are out of print. You can still order them off Vogue's website, but they're full price, and I've never been able to bring myself to spend over $20 for a pattern.
I bought a pants pattern from this range and have yet to try it out. It give couture techniques as well as fast techniques and I really want to take the time to do it properly. Watching your coats tutorials has inspired me!
ReplyDeleteI've had this pattern for two years and I have all the supplies to make it, but I've not had the confidence. Maybe this will be the year. I don't mind the conservative cut - I think it will last.
ReplyDeleteI love this pattern. I have owned it for a short time and have not been brave enough to make it! I think you have inspired me to give it a go. thanks (Vicki)
ReplyDeletewell, as things would have it, my birthday got in the way of sewing so I am just about 3 weeks behind on the Lady Grey. I was catching up on your posts and have to admit you've turned me into a tailoring monster, too. In the process of this I bought a few tailoring books, some new pressing gadgets and a very promising Italian sewing pattern for a sweet tuxedo jacket.
ReplyDeleteI actually like that Claire Schaeffer pattern and I don't normally like the commercial blazer/jacket patterns. I'd change a few things about it--definitely color. I'm getting so tired of the boyfriend blazers and notice that some rtw designers are feeling the same.
A near complete list of Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Patterns may be found here:
ReplyDeletehttp://julstech.blogspot.com/2011/05/claire-shaeffers-pattern-collection.html
Just getting back into sewing after being absent for a few years. This blog is great, Thank you!