Yep, I was wearing the dress wrong before. Remember how I picked this pattern (Vogue 1117) partially because I liked the wide neck, which made it very reminiscent of the Ceil Chapman design I was inspired by? So obviously, I went ahead and started pulling and pinching the darn neckline until it was unrecognizable. (Again, this is why I'm a member of OA - Overfitters Anonymous.) Thanks to you, dear readers, I realized the error of my ways. I took out the bodice tucks I'd made, pushed it down on my shoulders and voila, fitting issues solved.The upper back is smooth now!
There's still a little wrinkling at the lower back, so I'm going to pinch just a LITTLE more out for a swayback. I'm not going to overfit this time, I swear.Thanks for your help, readers. I only realized the problem because several of you pointed out the drag lines of my shoulders, as well as the fact that one dress shoulder was lower than the other. Sheesh. What would I do without you guys?
So tell me now before I whip out the pin cushion again. Anything else look amiss, fit-wise?
Um, I almost hate to be the one (especially the first one) to say anything after you've already gone to so much work. But I think one final little tweak may be in order.
ReplyDeleteI think re-aligning the neckline has made what you took in at the princess seams on the bodice front unnecessary. It looks like the front tucks are stretching across the bust, and that it's a little too tight up to the shoulder - there are pulling creases beside the armhole starting at the shoulder and extending down.
But I think simply re-sewing the front bodice princess seam at the original seam allowance may release the tension in both areas.
I hope you don't mind my mentioning it, I'm just a real nit-picker with fit!
Thank goodness for all those expert sewers out there. I hadn't noticed anything wrong with the shoulders/sleeves! Good luck with the next stage.
ReplyDeletebrocadegoddess, I think you're right! Thanks!
ReplyDeleteI was just going to say it looks great and frames your face and decolletage really nicely.
ReplyDeleteWow, the wider neckline is much prettier!
ReplyDeleteLooks a lot better now. I think brocadegoddess is right- letting out the princess seams should make the bodice look better. You are a great example for making a muslin- a step I often skip. But thank goodness you didn't make adjustments you didn't need on your fashion fabric and ruin it- something I often do. Note to self: gotta make a muslin!
ReplyDeleteGertie, your blog has totally inspired me to make muslins and focus on fit more than I have in the past (typically I would just make the pattern up and spend two days figuring out where I went wrong). The problem I am running in to is finding fabric to make a muslin out of. Real muslin fabric is out of my price range and my supply of bed sheets that were being used as drop cloths is slowly dwindling. Any resource suggestions for buying cheap muslin in bulk or what else to use?
ReplyDeleteFor muslin material: church rummage sales, tag sales, and garage sales. Old (sometimes ugly and possibly stained, or ripped) sheets, curtains, old tablecloths -- there is always something usable that can be picked up for a dollar or two. Muslin is muslin, you're pitching it out anyway when the project is done.
ReplyDeleteI can just see it in the roses fabric. It will look spectacular!
ReplyDeleteOh if only we all had a panel of hundreds to gently steer us away from dressmaking mistakes. I would have so many more wearable things in my wardrobe and many less sewing hours wasted!
ReplyDeleteI can't wait to see the finished frock.
I agree with brocadegoddess - it's looking a bit tight over the bust now, and undoing your alteration there is probably what is required.
ReplyDeleteFor the sway back adjustment take out enough to prevent the zip bending in and out. The excess looks more in the lower bodice area now - check your toile waistline is in the correct place before determining the exact spot.
Can't wait to see the finished dress - you've inspired me to cut out my 1970's red print!
Looking good! I have to say I think it's really cute that just a few weeks ago there was a post about body shapes and you were't sure what yours was, but this dress really highlights your pear shape! I can't wait to see it all done up in the rose print fabric.
ReplyDeleteYour muslin looks great and thanks for sharing your "eureeka moment". Don't feel bad I'm a member of "Overfitter Anonymous" as well. It's like I forget I have to sit, walk, or breathe in the thing! LOL! I've gotten much better. But trust me it's not entirely us. That muslin can be a tad tricky. It always seems to show excess wrinkles! I absolutely can't wait to see the finished dress. It will be so gorgeous!
ReplyDeleteNow that you're wearing the dress correctly, does this mean mean that it must be fussed with a lot when worn? Will it always be shifting on the shoulders? Thank you for sharing this process -- it's fascinating.
ReplyDeleteReminds me of the pants I made a couple months ago (from a Unique Patterns custom-drafted pattern, no less) that just didn't fit right. I had sewn a muslin together lickety-split, leaving an opening on the side for a zipper, and I pulled them on. I kept pulling up the back, trying to figure out why they seemed too short in the rise there. At some point in all the tugging/groping, I noticed the intersection of the crotch seams seemed kinda far up my backside...so I dropped the pants to the floor, did a 180, and pulled them up again. Oh. That's better.
ReplyDeleteYes, wearing a garment the right way makes a BIG difference... :-)
I too am guilty of not making a muslin for myself. I do it for clients all the time - doh! I use bedsheets and really inexpensive cotton blends. Most fabric stores have $1 to $4 bins with fabrics suitable to the cause.
ReplyDeleteGertie, your dress is going to be divine!
ChristineB - are you my twin? I have done that sort of thing so many times whilst sewing AND in store fitting rooms! Thanks, I needed the giggle.
Ha! Overfitters Anonymous... so funny, so true. Can't wait to see your finished dress!
ReplyDeleteIt's so funny, I was just watching sex and the city. Carrie Bradshaw wears almost your exact dress, but in pink cotton in Season 2 Episode 18.
ReplyDeleteI just thought you might think that was funny :)