Did you guys see the Selfish Seamstress's post on Ceil Chapman? It is, in a word, awesome. The fabulous Ms. Selfish herself commented on my Spring Fabric Fever post to say that my Liberty rose print was just begging to be given the Ceil Chapman treatment, as in the mouth-wateringly perfect draped floral sheath above. I am now obsessed and must figure out a way to make this dress. Thank you, Selfish Seamstress! (God, talk about selfish - posting helpful and inspirational tips on others' blogs? Does she ever think about anyone other than herself?!)And now, dear friends, I need your help making this dress happen.
So here's my fabric:
The first option is to attempt some advanced patternmaking. I could be brave and use my Jenny skirt pattern in conjunction with a self-drafted bodice. I did a quick sketch, and this is what I think the lines should look like. Don't laugh at my drawing!
I think I could modify a v-neck bodice, making it very plunging and then adding some tucks at the center bust. And then the sweetheart neckline behind it looks kind of like a modesty panel or dickey that could be tacked in. Of course, this would require lots of muslins and potential aggravation.
The other option is to take a contemporary pattern and make something more inspired by (rather than directly knocking off) the Chapman.
Some possibilities? I think my top pick is Vogue 8555.
There's always the fab new Michael Kors (Vogue 1167) which has some cool draping at the bodice.
Or last season's Michael Kors (Vogue 1117), with some very Chapman-esque pleating.
(I have all these patterns on order, thanks to the current $3.99 sale!)So what say you, dear readers? Which direction should I turn? I need lots of guidance here!
I think your fabric will look fabulous in this style of dress, although I dont think the neckline details are clear enough to make it worth all the effort of drafting a pattern.
ReplyDeleteMy personal favourite is Vogue 8555 or Vogue 1117 without the cap sleeve.
Whichever you chose it will look stunning.
You certainly have the perfect fabric! I think by looking at the picture of the dress there is almost a wrap tie to the side thing going on over the bust area as I think I can see the end of a tie on the right... so I would advice to go for the overall shape of the garment than a true copy, but pick out your fave detail, the pleating?
ReplyDeleteI like the last pattern you picked as I think it combines what you like about the original dress. Why not try draping a similar fabric? I find this sometimes gets me motivated more than thinking of pattern drafting and paper patterns.
What ever you decide the fabric will be stunning on you! Good Luck
Sweet lord thats divine!
ReplyDeleteThat neckline looks more like a cowl to me, rather than a sweetheart/panel setup. But it's really difficult to tell from here. It's gorgeous, regardless!
ReplyDeleteI did a little digging. You can see more of the dress here: http://www.memphisvintage.com/ccred.html
ReplyDeleteIt's definitely a draped cowl bodice with tucks to control the cowl. And it is GORGEOUS!!!!
I hope that you find a pattern to assist with your construction. You might want to take a close look at this post from the Sewing Lawyer (someone linked to it from the Selfish Sewist's post). She bought a Ceil Chapman dress and she shows some of the interior details. Yummy!
ReplyDeletehttp://kaythesewinglawyer.blogspot.com/2010/02/vintage-1950s-ceil-chapman-party-dress.html
Rose in SV
*drool* YES. YES. YES!!! The fabric does scream to make a drop-dead gorgeous little wiggle dress! ;) My vote is for Vogue 1117; I think the lines are not only very Cecil Chapman-esque, but the cut would be fantastic on you. While you could go the route of drafting/draping your own bodice, I think a little "inspired by" rather than directly copying might be even more fun. ;)
ReplyDeleteCan't wait to see how this killer dress turns out!!!
♥ Casey
blog | elegantmusings.com
I think a lot of your pleating details will get lost in the busy pattern. The simpler the better, I think.
ReplyDeleteWhile I like the Vogue 8555, perhaps you could try a Gertie version of Butterick Retro 6582? I think it's still available in stores. When I saw your rose fabric in the original post I was first green with envy but then thought it's gonna look gorgeous on you no matter what you make. Can't wait to see what you come up with.
ReplyDeleteHow exciting! My very favorite part of the dress is the cowl neckline with the gathers at the bust center. I hope you don't lose that design by going with one of the patterns. I've been thinking about that fabric since you debuted it last week. It will look awesome no matter how you slice it, but that neckline is a little piece of heaven!
ReplyDeleteI love 1117, especially the neckline. What makes is the best pattern for me are the shoulders: not a classic sleeveless dress, but something really sensual that goes along with the neckline.
ReplyDeleteAnd having seen this very fabric on a much more pleated design, I found it really fine, whereas I'm usually touchy on that matter...
I never paid much attention to Michael Kors designs before, but this interesting and refined construction quite changed my mind, actually. Go for it!
Beautiful! I agree with your top pick for the pattern. It gives the "inspired by" feeling, without all the trouble of self-drafting a bodice (which might lose some of the detail of either the print or the tucks/pleats anyway).
ReplyDeleteI have the Michael Kors pattern, but I haven't made it yet. So, I vote Michael Kors, but mostly because I'm selfish and want to see how it goes for you. ;-)
ReplyDeleteI think you can draft the bodice yourself. You can do it! Instead of flat-patterning it, though, I'd try draping it. Build your sloper with lots of excess at the neck, put it on your dress form, and go to town.
ReplyDeleteMy favorites would be either the 8555 or 1117, but without the cap sleeves. I'm kind of leaning more towards the first, 8555.
ReplyDeleteThat fabric is so yummy.
You could rotate the bust darts to the center front and then gather there. I just read a post yesterday at Sew4fun blog by Belinda. She rotated a bust dart to center front in her pattern for a nightie. I totally agree on the choice of style for this amazingly gorgeous print!
ReplyDeleteAs soon as I finish my current project, I will start a somehat similar sheath dress for my niece.
Love it!
I love this fabric. I love Liberty prints in general. And I think the Ceil Chapman is a perfect inspiration for a dress of this print. I also like that you made a drawing.
ReplyDeleteI have to be the oddball and say that I really do not like the Michael Kors1117. In general but especially for this dress. It is too office-y wrap dress and not garden party cocktail enough. I like the first two better. They have sleeker silhouettes and simpler details. Vogue 8555 is definitely easily alterable to taste and a good place to start and the new Michael Kors (my fave) would be adorable with the little bow deal on the shoulder (or without it) and it has really interesting draping.
Anyway you choose it, I have yet to see you post an outfit that I didn't like on you so I think that whatever you do will look gorgeous! trust your instincts on this one!
I would totally work w/ the vogue 1117. The middle one is great, but I think the last one lends itself more to the feel/look of the original dress. Great fabric, btw...Can't wait to see you in it! I know you'll look FANTASTIC!!
ReplyDeleteHey Gertie, you might want to take a look at Retro Butterick 6584, it could make a stunning homage to the dress, without being a downright copy.
ReplyDeletehttp://butterick.mccall.com/b6582-products-1037.php?page_id=371&search_control=display&list=search
That fabric would be fab for the dress! Use the Vogue 8555 pattern. No modesty panel needed!
ReplyDeleteIf you aren't feeling like you have the time or patience for drafting your own bodice, then I vote for V8555. I think it would be stunning in that fabric and a great homage dress to the original. :)
ReplyDeleteI think we all must. have. that. dress. I think if we did world peace would commence, but only if we had the right shoes to go with the dress.
ReplyDeleteVogue 8555, without question.
Gertie - I think that dress I like best is the Kors 1117 but I think the 8555 would look better on your figure and with your style.
ReplyDeleteI think that 1117 is to die for! Makes me wish I still sewed clothing - well, maybe not really - but I do wish I could find a style like that in ready made.
ReplyDeleteThis dress is very lovely! Could you use your sheath dress (red you've already made) and change the neckline to suit your dream.
ReplyDeleteI think that the Vogue 1117 is most similar to the Ceil Chapman dress in draping, so I think you should use that one.
ReplyDeleteI don't see how anything made in that fabric could possibly not say "garden party". Also, if you look at the photo of Retro Butterick 6584, the lines from the draping are very subtle, not like the lines in the drawings, or on the Chapman dresses.
I'd go with the Vogue 1167, it would look so stunning in your rose print fabric. Why give yourself a massive headache trying to draft and endlessly toile/muslin a new style when these ones you have on order are so fantastic already? Good luck!
ReplyDeleteI vote 1167. I just love that one, and I think the rose pattern would be amazing for it.
ReplyDeleteHave you seen this Ceil Chapman reproduction pattern?
ReplyDeletehttp://www.vintagefashionlibrary.com/inc/sdetail/251
You could make the slim sheath dress without the overskirt. Or use it as a reference point for Ceil Chapman-ish construction.
I vote for Vogue 1117, love the neckline!
ReplyDeleteWhoops, it cut off the web address. The rest of it is .com/inc/sdetail/251
ReplyDeleteCan't wait to see your lovely creation whatever you decide!
Hi Gertie, the original appears to have a seam under the bust, indicating a midriff like 8555. I think you could do a great copy by making 8555 and a toile for the front bodice only-- cut the already-loose neckline with a bunch of extra fabric and try to replicate the cowl gathers. After that, the modesty panel would not be too challenging.
ReplyDeleteI also agree with everyone who nixed the Kors. It would take all of the sexy out of that rose pattern.
Godspeed! It'll look great on you!
I think you would probably do a swell job drafting the bodice, but if you don't feel like doing that I'm sure there is a 50s pattern that could help you along!
ReplyDeleteI like the last pattern but I agree with other commenters that I don't think you'd see that detail amidst the fabric's pattern, and I don't like the midriff of the first Vogue or the bow-thingy on the Michael Kors dress. They're not classic enough!
What will the skirt shape be? More sheath-like or very wiggly?
Hi Gertie, I live in the UK and look forward to your blogs every day! Anyway I wonder if you know about 2 amazing Ceil Chapman reproduction patterns available to buy on the Vintage Fashion Library site, these are No.139 "Wounded Bird" priced at $22.99 and a 50's draped bodice dress No.130 priced at $24.99. Your fabric would look fantastic in either of these. Hope this is helpful.
ReplyDeleteWow, thanks for all your help guys. And Ann - thanks for the link! I never would have guessed that was a cowl. So cool. I just ordered a copy of the Skylark pattern from Vintage Fashion Library, if anything it will be great to see the construction. But I'm definitely leaning towards one of the Vogue patterns - more to come!
ReplyDeleteHi Gertie
ReplyDeleteI really like #1117, that seems to be closest in style. The fabric is lovely, cant wait to see what style you go with!! :-)
Ruby Slippers
rubyslippersvintage.blogspot.com
Your drawing is just dandy. That dress is drool-worthy! When I have a waist again I also must have a dress like that. Maybe I'll get that Vogue while it's on sale...
ReplyDeleteHi Gertie! No doubt it will be fabulous, whatever you chose. My vote is for Vogue 8555.
ReplyDeleteI may have already said that I would be prepared to kill for this dress.
ReplyDeleteThe dress has an empire line with princess seams over the bust. I would make the basic dress shape (Vogue 8555 is a good start but you need princess seams), and then overlay another centre front panel that is cut on the bias with fullness to form the cowl.
ReplyDeleteStunning dress as it is - but it would look great in Vogue 8555 too!
I vote Vogue 1117.
ReplyDeleteOh my gosh. i love this idea. Ive never been a big fan of floral but now im not so sure.... hehe i really like 8555 but also the kors pattern... maybe a combination of the two? it screams spring. im trying to cling to the warm weather as it is getting very cool here in australia. cannot wait to see some pictures of this coming together!!! ps.i love checking my mailbox for gertie mail each morning! :-)
ReplyDeleteCan't wait to see what this dress will look like with all your tattoos.
ReplyDeleteDarling dress.
ReplyDeleteAnonymous, I can tell you right now how it's going to look with all my tattoos: AWESOME. There, now you don't have to wait! :)
ReplyDeleteSo cute! I think it would look beautiful with the Vogue 1117. Also, the retro Butterick pattern 6582, might work too. Can't wait to see it!
ReplyDeleteAlso, just saw this pattern on etsy: http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=39330506&ref=sr_list_21&&ga_search_query=sewing+pattern+cowl+neck+dress&ga_search_type=all&ga_page=&includes[]=tags&includes[]=title
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteGertie,
ReplyDeleteI found a picture of that Vogue 8555 made up for you and guess where I found the picture? The latest J.Crew catalog!! I was paging through and the lines of this dress, the Sydney, just jumped out at me. Isn't it the same? Who knew the Big 4 were knocking off from J. Crew so blatantly?
Dang! I am one size too big for this dress (at least in the bust and waist) :(
ReplyDeleteHopefullly I will find something just as lovely but unfortunately most plus size clothing patterns are like wearing a sack!
Hey Gertie!
ReplyDeleteI think this is my first comment, but I'm a new sewer and your blog is a major inspiration for me! I am in love with this dress, but my size falls exactly between the 10 and the 12, which are split between two different patterns. To be specific, my bust is a size 10 (with padded bra a 12), my waist is an 8, and my hips are 35"--exactly between the size 10 and twelve. HELP! I don't know which pattern to buy!?! What would you do? I'm so almost the smaller pattern, but just a smidgen towards the larger and I am dreadfully confused.
Thank you!