Armed and Ready (for Coat-Making!)

So, I confessed to you last week that I was intimidated by how complicated coat-making seems. In fact, I was ready to wimp out and take all the shortcuts I could. But then one of you lovely commenters brought me to my senses.

Here's what kbenco wrote:

I'm sorry to disagree with the "just go for it" vibe here, but I think your Modern Vogue pattern is deceiving you. IMO the instructions should start with "Consult a good tailoring reference". If you make a coat without fiddly interfacing and lining etc etc, you will be able to wear it, but will you be happy with it? I threw out my first real jacket, made from the instructions in the Vogue pattern envelope, after I had made one from the same pattern, using tailoring references, which I liked about a thousand times better. A nicely made coat would be worth all the work.

First of all, I adore her sassy attitude! I love a broad with strong opinions. Her thoughts definitely touched a nerve, and I've committed to doing this thing the right way.

The first thing I did was write to the lovely Nancy K, who lives in my region and participated in the Great Coat Sew-Along (with fantastic results!). Nancy was very generous with advice for me, especially concerning what kind of interlining is good for our part of the country.


So, armed with Nancy's guidance and a reference book I picked up at the FIT bookstore, I headed to the Garment District and shopped til I dropped. Seriously, my bags got so heavy I almost tipped down the subway stairs. Let me tell you, it got expensive fast. In fact, I spent about the same in supplies for this coat as I did for the last coat that I bought at Macy's. Granted, that coat is a worthless piece of crap. I have to keep reminding myself that this coat is going to be much better and warmer and more fabulous than anything I could buy ready-to-wear. (Right?)

My shopping spoils included:

1. 5-1/4 yards red wool/cashmere flannel from Paron's
   
2. 2-1/2 yards polka dot silk charmeuse for the lining from A.K. Fabrics
3. Heavy tailor's muslin for testing the pattern
4. Black lambswool for interlining (it's so soft and fluffy!)
   
5. Sew-in hair canvas for the undercollar and hem
6. Weft interfacing for the front facing

And believe it or not, there are more supplies to be bought. I managed to forget thread and shoulder pads. And there might be shoulder head whatsits and pressing thingamabobs needed (I'll have to consult my reference book for the exact terminology here.) And I'm also going to have covered buttons custom made. (Squee!)

So, here I go. Wish me luck! I'm going to get the muslin sewn up this week. I'll definitely be looking to you sassy, opinionated broads for feedback on the fit.

P.S. Just to note: I took the above photo in artificial light and couldn't get across the fabulous lipstick-red color of the wool, sadly. But trust me: it is a fab, true red hue. Not orange-y at all. Coordinates perfectly with MAC Russian Red lipstick!