So, as I mentioned earlier this week, that wench Doris had the nerve to lose the front pattern piece for the "bonus" bolero project in VoNBBS. Well, some of you believed that I would be able to draft the missing pattern piece myself. And while I'm dubious of the confidence you have in my patternmaking skills, I just can't resist a dare.So here's the muslin of what I came up with, made out of old curtains! Not bad, eh? What do you think? The only thing I'm really having trouble figuring out is the length of the lapels, and that's why the lapels are two different lengths in the muslin. In these two illustrations below, they vary quite a bit. The one on the left is from the pattern envelope, and the one on the right is from VoNBBS. See where they end in respect to the bustline?
I toyed around a bit with the length on my muslin, as you can see in the picture above. (The left lapel is shorter than the right.) Which do you think is better? Also, remember that the seam allowances will make everything 5/8" shorter.
I'm leaning towards the shorter lapel version; I think it's a bit kickier.
But, nit picking aside, I'm pleased as punch with myself that I might have figured this out. Especially since I already had planned a skirt to go with this version of the bolero. Vogue 8603, view A, which is a knock-off of a Nanette Lepore piece. It has ruching on the hips and a gathered ruffle in the back. Cute, right?
The whole ensemble will be made in a wool gabardine in a color I've been describing as "plum," but that could be inaccurate.Anyway, I'd love your thoughts and feedback on my muslin!
The left lapel - the shorter version - is definitely more to my taste! Well done on your drafting; it looks like it will work out great. And I love that Vogue skirt pattern. The whole ensemble will be fab.
ReplyDeleteCongrats on your drafting. You should pick whichever length looks best on you. I note both illustrations show the lapel hitting just below the sleeve length, so that could be a guide. Also, is there a facing piece? If so that might give you a length.
ReplyDeleteSecondly, the skirt -- ruching? not on these hips, baby! I've looked at that pattern, and while it's pretty in the abstract, in person I fear it would draw attention to all the wrong elements of my figure. I look forward to seeing it on a real person, though.
Together -- I think these cropped jackets look great with skirts that are trim and show off the waist, so they should be a nice match.
Based on the two Vogue illustrations rather than the muslin, I prefer the slightly longer/ Doris one, which I find more elegant. To me, there's too much of a differential between lengths front and back on the VoNBBS picture, and the way it starts just under the bust line tends to focus the eye on that area (making Vogue lady's bust look much bigger than in the longer version, although it might also be because her bolero is white on a black dress which makes it stand out more). Looking at the muslin, I'd also go for the longer one (bearing in mind it'll be the length of the shorter one by the time seam allowances kick in).
ReplyDeleteSewing out of old curtains? How very Von Trapp of you!
ReplyDeleteI like the one on the left!! And I agree....the thought of ruching over the hip? eeek!
ReplyDeletedid you think of printing out the illo in the book and scaling it to your other pattern sizes? I have done that to replace pattern pieces and it's actually worked out fine. And you'd even have your notches and dots correct.
You are amazing that you were able to draft the missing piece. I think you're right that the lapel on the left is kickier, more you, more fun. This jacket is going to be so darling. I can't wait to see the final version on you. I don't know how you have time to do all the sewing you do and work full time. We need to learn your secrets of time management.
ReplyDeleteWell done! I think shorter IS indeed kickier, and the ruching looks awesome!
ReplyDelete-Sandra
I'm scared of that Vogue skirt pattern. My hips are already pronounced. No need in pointing arrows at them.
ReplyDeleteI like the long lapels best. Kudos on drafting the missing pattern piece!
ReplyDeleteShorter side looks better to me. Your drafting is good.
ReplyDeleteI am only 5'3" so I would choose the longer one to lengthen my torso...I think that the shorter one would make me looked chopped...but that's if it were on me. I agree with the comment that a good guide would be to follow the length of the sleeve and keep them the same. I do like the curtains you have used, very pretty! I once made a jumper (1980's) out of a floral bedsheet and someone said to me, "I have sheets just like that" and I replied, "I use to!".
ReplyDeleteI think plum will be a lovely Autmun color for you :)
I would opt for the longer length & to add my southern 2 cents worth - the old curtains idea as not only very "Von Trapp" of you, but very "Scarlet O'Hara" as well!
ReplyDeleteThat's right: hip ruching! In my imagination, it will make my hourglassiness look even more hourglassy. But, you know, I've been wrong before.
ReplyDeleteThere should be a facing piece, but Doris lost that too.
Hmm, secrets of time management? I'm by no means an expert, but maybe I'll post on the topic! Thanks for the idea.
I'm also in the shorter lapel camp. I think the main difference between the two illustrations is the length of the back in relation to the front, not the length of the lapel in relation to the front edge (if that makes sense).
ReplyDeleteAlso, I really like the skirt you've chosen. Personally, when I wear rushing, it is usually in the waist area, and it makes my waist look smaller than it really is, so I'm not at all convinced that it would make your hips look bigger.
I think the longer lapel would end up looking better. I can't imagine many women would want the end of a jacket lapel to point to their bust, effectively accentuating it, if it's medium to large size. If you're relatively small busted then the shorter length could work. But my preference is the slighter longer look. I think it will look fabulous with the ruched skirt and I can't wait to see it finished.
ReplyDeleteThe line of the shorter (on the left) version is lovely! And the skirt is luscious. Like others of your readers, I've been eyeing that pattern and wondering if ruching on the hips will be the best disguise ever for a less than svelte silhouette ... or if it will make an unsightly situation worse. I expect your outfit will be stunning.
ReplyDeleteCongratulations on working it out, thats so great! i definitely agree on the shorter lapel, very cute.
ReplyDeleteLove the left lapel, but have question about the draft, did the CB seam end up on the bias? Don't know which fabric you're using, but if the front ens up on the straight grin, then the shawl collar won't roll properly and the front hem wil end up following biasline, and may unreasonably stretch to begin with.
ReplyDelete1. Well done
ReplyDelete2. Yes, shorter, definitely
3. I seriously hope you have more of that FABULOUS curtain fabric - sorry, but methinks that is the definite star of this show!!
I think the left lapel is the more accurate, because it looks like the bottom edge runs more parallel to the floor, which is what the two drawings look like they do. And it just looks crisper, somehow.
ReplyDeleteAnd I like the front ruching on the skirt. But maybe that means you don't necessarily want a "crisp' front. Maybe softer would be better.
I have to go. There's a hair over in that corner that needs to be split, pronto.
How do you solve a problem like Doris?
ReplyDeleteHow do you pin her pattern pieces down.
How do you shape the pieces lost by Doris?
With missing lapels, and facings lost, not found.
Many's the thing you wish that you could tell her
Many's the piece she should have put away.
But how do you find a way
To scold her today
When you know she did her sewing in the past
Oh, how do you solve a problem like Doris
You'll have to draft that bolero lapel by hand.
elizabethe, will you marry me???
ReplyDeleteelizabethe, you are quite the poet!
ReplyDeleteGertie, you are quite the designer!
I think you should make the one that you like best on you! Personally, I think it is difficult to make a decision based upon the way it looks on a dummy. I am long and don't think any dummy would be shaped like me! The long lapels would probably be short on my body!
You are just too amazing! Like the shorter version unless you are making it for a dressier mode.
ReplyDeleteGertie, a friend of mine has a very similar skirt with ruched hip panels, and it does indeed make her hour glass figure even curvier - so good choice of pattern I think. Also, started reading your blog a week or so ago and am finding it most inspiring, and it might even prompt a bit of winter sewing! Cheers, emily
ReplyDeleteBravo at your pattern drafting! :D Looks like you did a superb job at it--both lapel versions are looking fantastic. ;) Though like you, I'm leaning towards the shorter one; it just relates to the rest of the design better.
ReplyDeleteI really love that skirt pattern--it's so sassy! The entire thing made up in plum wool is going to be absolutely stunning--you are going to look fantastic Gertie! :)
Yes!
ReplyDeleteI was so inspired by your curtain muslin, it just demanded a response.
I like the shorter one better, too. (I do like both though.) I think that's a good skirt pairing. I can't wait to see the complete ensemble!
ReplyDeleteYeah I defently like the shorter one, just a bit more va va voom! xx
ReplyDeleteAnother vote for the shorter one. Great job drafting... Can't wait to see it made up!
ReplyDeleteAnother vote for the short version, def. kickier. Congrats on rising and dominating the dare! The skirt looks like its going to be hot shizzle too!
ReplyDeleteThe left one, no doubt. It's got a lot more energy in the lines than the right one, I think.
ReplyDeleteThe skirt makes me think of Burdastyle's Kasia (http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/kasia), a free pattern that looks great on all different shapes. Loads of ruching on the hips there.
And hips make figures more hourglass-shaped, who doesn't want that :-)?
Oh, btw, congratulations on becoming a Burdastyle blogger, I didn't know that you are there, I am (I'm Ichigogirl there), this blog inspired me to take up sewing vintage (thank you!) so I do look forward to your blogposts there as well!