So, I can't tell you how glad I am I did a test version of this dress, as I wrote about in this post. I'm having some serious bodice fitting issues.Essentially, the bodice is just too long. See how it rumples in the photo above? I need to take about a one and a half inch tuck above the waistline, and then the fit will be perfect. Here I have the tuck pinned out:
It's very fitted at the waist, as you can see. I think if I were making a casual version of this (which I definitely will, since I love this shape), I would add about one more inch of ease to the waistline for everyday comfort. But since the red satin version I have planned will be a special occasion dress, I'm going to go for the fitted look.Once I get the fit down, I can see myself making several versions of this. It's the perfect work dress, either with a cardigan or as a jumper.
I made the belt on my own, using 1-inch belting and a little rhinestone buckle ($1.99 at Pacific Trim!) I think it looks all right. Just wait, though, until you see my custom-made red satin belt. It is to die for!
So, what do you think? Any fitting issues I'm missing?
I love it. The fit is pretty darn close! It is very flattering on you. Isn't it funny about the long bodices back in the 50's? I am short waisted anyway but with vintage patterns sometimes I take out over 2 inches. Are we use to higher waistlines now? Or maybe it has to do with those girdles and bullet bras!
ReplyDeleteHow odd...I always thought in the 40's-early 60's women wore their belts and waistbands at their natrual waist which is a tad bit higher than what we are used to wearing now. I have some neighbors that were both in the fasion industry from the last 1950's up through the 1980's and I'm going to ask them about it. I know that men definately wore their pants belted higher than they do now. I'm actually a bit confused by this now!
ReplyDeleteLooks good in the photo. Make a beautiful thing.
ReplyDeleteI don't like taking the time to do a muslin, but I'm going to make myself do it on some things I have coming up. I know it's important. The fit is very close, and it is very flattering on you.
ReplyDeleteOh, it will be so beautiful! I'm pretty envious of you right now, I want to get my hands on that pattern too! :-) Best of luck with the rest of making this beatiful dress, I just know it will be awesome. :-)
ReplyDeleteThat tuck makes all the difference. It even makes the arm holes sit more neatly, from what I can see. Perfect for you!
ReplyDeleteAlways good to do a muslin. The fit looks right, but the armholes (if that is the word in english) look a little tight for my taste. Can't wait to see the red belt. Love your blog by the way.
ReplyDeleteAh - the red satin belt. How are you having it made? Self-covered buckle? I am always looking for sources for that sort of thing.
ReplyDeleteI also have issues with the long bodices of 50's dresses, and it seems (to me at least) that my 60's dresses tend to fit my short waist better without alteration. I think the long and narrow torso really was a 50's fashion ideal (thanks to girdles galore, of course). Maybe related to the "wasp waist"? Anyway, its interesting to see other ladies have the same reaction as me!
ReplyDeleteWould scooping the neckline a touch lower be in the cards? I think that might be a little more flattering on you, and it looks as if it might match the book cover more closely as well.
ReplyDeleteThe fit looks great; the above is more of a style thing.
the fit is pretty close! It looks gorgeous on you. I could really see that being a dress that I could make over and over again. Can you share the pattern number?
ReplyDeleteWow, that tuck did the trick! Nice job on fitting that. I can see doing that pattern in a variety of fabric types, for the different seasons.
ReplyDeleteI was never patient enough to do a muslin, until I totally botched a dress (that I have yet to fix). Now I'm thinking about fabric dyes, in case my muslin(s) turn out great and I want to wear them!
You mention self-belts in this post; how does one go about that? I looked in JoAnn's for anything that looked like a kit for making a belt out of your own fabric, but didn't see anything other than the junky buckles they sell for bags, etc. What should I be looking for, and where? Thanks!
Like Ann D said, there is something going on in the arm skye/hole/whatever. Strap too long?
ReplyDeleteAnd where are your knees, girl! And what shoes show off the muslin? I look for these things.
Can't wait to see the red one - it is going to be gorgeous! Interesting about the long waisted thing. I am long waisted and nothing ever fits me. The darts are never right in dresses on me. I am sure somebody will research this and find out why there is a difference between then and now.
ReplyDeletek: Ha! I take it you think it's too long? And Lydia thinks the neck is too high. You must all be trying to tart me up!
ReplyDeleteAnyway, points well taken. I wore it today, and discovered that of the length needed to be taken out, half should be tucked from the midriff, and the other half should be taken from the straps. I think this should solve the armhole issue.
I see a few questions about belts, so I'm going to devote a whole post to the topic! I've been doing a lot of belt-making research.
Knitosaurus, the pattern number is Vogue 7101. I've seen it pop up a couple times on eBay. If you set a Google alert for it, I'm sure a copy will come along eventually.
The dress looks darling. It took me several funky-looking garments to realize the vital importance of making a muslin. Now I can't imagine starting a project without one! I usually have to shorten the waist a couple inches, too. I'm wondering if Cindy is right about it having to do with the girdles and cone bras women wore back then...
ReplyDeleteI can't wait to see your red satin version! I have a feeling it will be stunning.
Lovely! I'm just amazed at how fast you sew, it takes a great deal longer for me =) The tuck is necessairy, but it seems to me the hemline is at a perfect lenght. Very 50s!And I agree with Lydia, lowering the neckline a little bit so it lies straight horizonthal would look great.
ReplyDeleteLooking forward to seeing it in red!
This looks great on you. You did a great job of altering this. This is the trade off you make with fitting at your true waist. Basically when a garment is fit tight (no ease) at true waist, there is little ability to move. That's why, I think you did great by moving the waist a little higher. At least this way you can move. Course "back in the day", movement wasn't so much a big deal.
ReplyDeleteLove your sheath dress!
On the back of most pattern envelopes it states the back-neck to waist measurement for different sizes. If you take that measurement and compare it to the measurement of the pattern. If the pattern is too long cut the pattern at the natural waistline and subtract from the top portion of the two pieces. Basically you subract from the waist up. Then smooth out the curves on the sides and it should be a better fit.
ReplyDeleteRegarding making a muslin - it is SO tedious and I am so lazy, but it helps so much. Here's my solution: I make the muslin in an inexpensive, thrift-store fabric. That way, if all turns out well, I can finish off the muslin as an informal day dress (likely with a more casual skirt and details than in the "main event" dress.
ReplyDelete